Stalling 90 & 90q rear calipers & injector cleaner

[Brett Dikeman]

At 7:38 PM -0400 10/3/01, Megan Bigelow wrote:

>but i am just offering up my experiences so that they might help 
>you. and FP relays are cheap ($25).

And do tend to fail a lot, mostly with internal connections that 
break, arc, build up a resistance, etc.  Our old 5000 had this 
problem.  I also once noticed that the FP relay in my 200q20v was 
running quite hot, so I took it apart, cleaned all the contacts, and 
reassembled.  I don't recall if it made the relay run cooler.

>about that injector cleaner, i wouldn't go nuts with it. this is 
>another story similar to the above one. the same 4kq as mentioned 
>above recently had a seized fuel distributor. about a tank and a 
>half before it seized, i put some "Gumout" (who knows *what* i was 
>thinking) into a 1/4 tank at a
>list recommendation, (the 1/4 tank part, not the Gumout part!) 
>despite the fact that gumout said to use on a full tank. now, i have 
>no idea *if* this caused the dist. to seize, but i am just including 
>this info FYI

Part of the reason that the bottles say to use them -before- filling 
up, is that adding a lot of fuel mixes whatever you just added.  If 
the additive is heavier than gasolene, it'll sink to the bottom of 
the tank, and get sucked up by the fuel pump in a heavily 
concentrated amount...I recall a lister reporting that their fuel 
pump squealed when they added a bottle of techron without filling up.

>my advice, be careful with injector cleaner


I second that, for two reasons...  First, injector cleaners don't 
burn completely cleanly(the only deposit removal stuff I know of that 
doesn't leave a deposit is deionized water vapor) and heavy use will 
result in a lot of deposits from the deposit remover itself.  Second, 
injector cleaners etc tend to leave some residue behind in your 
oil...try to do your treatments towards the end of your oil change 
cycle.  Techron is available in two "flavors"; continuous use 
formula, and a stronger one-shot kind, that's more expensive and the 
oil should be changed shortly afterwards.


>and speaking of the 90q, i would like to report success on using 4kq 
>rear calipers on a 90q. although the piston for the 90q is bigger, i 
>changed the rear calipers (and put huw's old rotors and almost new 
>pads on, thanks again for all your help and old parts huw...) on my 
>90q a couple of nights
>ago in a successful attempt to get the e-brake working again, what a relief.

I would recommend replacing w/90q calipers soon if they're all that 
different in piston size.  The smaller piston size will give you less 
braking power in back.

>  an overall success, although i did manage to get a heart-shaped 
>blister on my thumb from this procedure, which can be viewed at 
>www.uvm.edu/~mkbigelo/thumb1.jpg, if anyone so desires. also, this 
>brings up another
>question, where do i get the ATE blue and red brake fluids


Blau carries ATE super blue and clear(red?  Didn't know they had 
that), but it can only be shipped ground; air is out because it's a 
"hazardous" chemical.

I wouldn't bother...I think super blue isn't very necessary; if 
you're heating up your brakes to the point where you need its high 
boiling point, something's wrong...and shipping etc...zeesh.  I would 
just bleed the system per the Bently for the correct order, until you 
get clear fluid...and don't forget the clutch(which I've always found 
a royal PITA to bleed completely; I usually do both a depress with 
the bleed valve open, and a depress, hold, and then open.

Brett


-- 
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Brett Dikeman
brett at cloud9.[nospam]net
http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/
(vm/fax)212-894-3749x5271