10vt Head Modifications

[JShadzi at aol.com]

Todd,

I am planning on building another head for my car too...currently in my car I 
have a ported head with 40mm intakes (which I believe has helped increase top 
end power)...I believe on the 10v  that both valves need to be bigger.  If 
you are going to port the intake side, then using bigger intake valves makes 
sense, regardless of the exh. valve.  Flowing more air into the comb. chamber 
always makes sense in a turbo.  The TA had 41/36mm valves, I would like to do 
a 40/36mm combo using coated stainless valves on the exh side since nothing 
is sodium is available from the factory (33.3mm btw).  I think what Blau is 
doing is either a typo, or rediculous!  There is no need for a 40mm exh. 
valve!  

What I would also like to do is use a 7mm stem on the intake valve (ala VW A3 
GTI) and change the guides to 7mm to do this.  This will also help increase 
flow through the intake valve.  The exh. should stay 8mm to help conduct 
heat, as well as having the max seat surface area to conduct heat.

There are tons of shops that can do machine work on VW and Audi heads, P&P is 
trickier, Techtonics is great, but very expensive.  I would consider doing a 
head for you if you are interested, contact me privately if you are 
interested.

HTH,
Javad

In a message dated 9/15/2001 11:01:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
tquattroguy at yahoo.com writes:

<< Javad and List,
   Now that I'm getting new pistons, have the Light Flywheel, and
 the block.  I need to think about the head, etc. (OH, engine in
 Question is a 10vt that will have EFI)
   Obviously a P&P will be done.  Question is, with a turbo
 engine what do you do with valves. If memory serves unlike on a
 NA head you enlarge the Exhaust side and not the intake. 
 Blauf.. goes as far as putting 38mm Exhaust Valves in.  Thats
 HUGE...  Any comments on this?
   Are there any GOOD local shops that can do reliable work on
 the 10v head.  Including fine tuning my P&P job and Flowbenching
 it?
   Thanks
      Todd
  >>