comparison pic of rebuilt/original calipers

[Kim Johnson]

Bret,

I just dismanteled a set of calipers this afternoon. The "slick tool" to get
down inside and get that ring off was a medical type Hemostat. About 10 or
12 inches long made of stainless steel and should be easy to find at a tool
supply or hardware store. You just have to sharpen up the ends with a file a
small amount to fit onto the holes on the ring.

Put the Hemostat clamp into the ring and clamp it to the first notch then
press down on the top of the adjuster cone with a socket and extension (hand
pressure, don't even need a clamp) and POP it's off.

I am cleaning and derusting the bodies of the calipers then will paint them
with a Rustoleum type paint. Some people have their calipers powdercoated.
The secret to any good paint job is preparing the metal so the paint can
stick to something solid. Calipers are a real PIA but I find several
applications of Navel Jelly cuts the Crap pretty well.

Raybestos makes a lubricant called BAF-12 Hydraulic Brake Cylinder Assembly
Fluid that contains a polyalkylene oil and rust inhibitors. I use this
instead of soaking the new rubber seals in brake fluid. My thoughts being
that the brake fluid residue contributes to corrosion if the air can get to
it. IMHO that is what happened on your more corroded piston from your
picture.

I will use Sil-Glide (a silicone grease) liberally to assemble the e-brake
cam and adjuster mechanism. I have not been able to find a source for a
replacement grease seal where the e-brake lever goes into the body of the
caliper. So I just use a lot of Sil-Glide grease and a few big o-rings.

Upon installation, remember to quickly wash off the brake fluid that will
spill on them.

Kim Johnson
1986 5ktq
1989 200tqw
1991 20V