90 200tqa door locks/alarm

[Ron Wainwright]

  Huw & listers

  I'd first like to thank Huw for the info and for
suggestin lookin at Chris Millers 20v web site has
step by step instructions on how to change the locks
on the 200 seriese cars and (others that have the
flush door handles)
 I was lucky enough to find that the PO had allready
had the driver side door lock changed to the improved
steel lock cylenar it's just that when the monkey lad
who did the work musta broke the swivel bushing that
attatches to the locking rod and to the lock cylendar
 the end of the rod goes through the swivel bushing
which connects to the lock cylendar so I used a swivel
bushing from an old Saab door I had in the garage not
exactlly the same but it works for a Sunday fix.
 I haven't done the pass side yet just wanted to do
the main lock with alarm wonder if that side ever was
done? find out next week
if it's the same as the driver side and I just have to
fix the locking rod then I'll have the door lock kit's
for both sides that I'd like to sell
 but I do have one side if anyone is interested I'd
sell for what I paid for them which is less than
Blau's price I think they want like $35 each side for
$25
Let me know and thanks to Huw.
Ron
90 200tqa 202k IA stage1,1.7 bar





--- Huw Powell <human747 at attbi.com> wrote:
>
>
> >   Both my door locks don't work I've gotten 2 new
> lock
> > cylenders, carriers, lockrings
> >  anyways is there a write up on how to change the
> old
> > wafers in the old lock cylender to the new one?
>
> I've done this more on the old ("outie") style door
> handles, but I bet
> it is very similar on the flush door handles.
>
> When the handle is out, it should be apparent that
> one screw will
> release the cylinder assembly.  Upon removal, the
> wafers will all sort
> of stick out different distances, wiht little
> springs behind them.
> there should be enough gooey lube there to stop them
> from flying away,
> but be careful anyway.
>
> Take notes as you disassemble, to make it easier.
> replace the "new"
> wafers with your old ones in the same order.  I
> actually once managed to
> use all new wafers, since I had enough lying around
> to match all the old
> ones (there are really only three "kinds" of them)
>
> Once the cylinder is reassembled, inserting your key
> should cause all
> the wafers that are sticking out different amounts
> to pull in so they
> are all flush with the cylinder.  That's what allows
> you to turn it with
> the key in.  Then put them back int he door handles.
>
> I know there are extra issues with the alarm control
> mechanism, etc., on
> those handles.  I think Chris Miller's site is the
> best resource for
> more detail on getting that right.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/


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