MC1 - while I'm at it..

[Jim Green]

--- Ben Swann <bswann at worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> Does this mean I need to get into measurements,
> micrometer/plastigage,
> etc., or could I just get a standard set of shells
> for the motor?  I am
> assuming there is no abnormal wear on bearing
> surfaces.
>
> What about the rings and cylinder hone?  I would
> have thought that would
> have been the order of the day.
>
> Ben

Ben, having just gone through the process, and now
re-doing it again because of a spun rod bearing, I'd
say at least use some plastigauge to double check you
have the right bearings in there.  I'm having my crank
re-ground to the next bearing size, just to make sure
everything is back to spec.  It should run me about
$250 for the re-grind and all the bearing shells.  The
rings are easy, just get a fine grit hone, and scuff
the walls up a little, and make sure you get all the
crap out of the piston groves from the old rings.  Try
and borrow a hone with all the little balls on the
end, they work better, but are expensive.  I'm sure
you already know this, but since everyone felt the
need to tell me, I'm going to tell you, use assembly
lube on everything that moves!  Make sure you knock on
some wood after you're done to get rid of any bad luck
that this email could have caused. And hurry up
already!
Jim

'89 90tq EFI -The one month project that has turned
into three.

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