[urq] Help - Replacing hydraulic tappets/lifters

[QSHIPQ at aol.com]

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Phil writes:
>I'm very cautious with advice on the cam gear bolt.  The undoing
>torque can be fierce and many engines are interference types - if
>you've got the cam too far anti-clockwise and your restraint slips
>off, you could easily bend valves.

NO Phil.  Always, always always leave the belt attached to the cam and crank
gear when loosening the cam bolt, and always, always leave the belt attached
to the cam and crank gear when loosening the crank bolt.  There is no risk of
interference unless you have pulled the belt off first, that's just the
*wrong* way.  Leave the belt on, loosen your 2 bolts, find TDC again, remove
bolts.  Even the audi crank locking tools can rotate far enough from TDC to
get valves and pistons close, especially on 20v cars.  LEAVE THE BELT ON WHEN
LOOSENING OR TIGHTENING CAM/CRANK BOLTS.

>For ultimate accuracy, a beam-type torque wrench with a light/alarm.
>Otherwise an assistant to read the scale or a click-type.  There are
>several ways to jam breaker bars in the front of the car to hold a
>crank to this torque.  One of the drifts I carry in the toolbox also
>fits the flywheel hole.

Another no no.  The hole for the flywheel in the trans can crack the trans
casting very easily.  It's for the old vag tool, not for jamming the
flywheel.  You can easily crack the lower casting in the flywheel hole using
this method.  The only car that can't have a straight on access to the cam
bolt is the urq, all other cars have it (to TB procedure).  Use HPowell's
allen key lock trick for the cam gear. The best MacGuyver for crank bolt I've
seen (and used recently when a too loose crank bolt sheared the orientation
pin) is Graydon Stuckey's method:  Stuffing rope down #1 spark plug hole.

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning