[urq] Help - Replacing hydraulic tappets/lifters

[Phil Payne]

>I'm very cautious with advice on the cam gear bolt. The undoing
>torque can be fierce and many engines are interference types - if
>you've got the cam too far anti-clockwise and your restraint slips
>off, you could easily bend valves.

> NO Phil.  Always, always always leave the belt attached to the cam
and crank
gear when loosening the cam bolt, and always, always leave the belt
attached
to the cam and crank gear when loosening the crank bolt.

In general I agree - you'll note the instructions on my head removal
page have done it this way for at least four years.  The belt is not
enough on its own, though.  Quite often you don't have a belt, and I
swapped one last week (1B engine) where the crank oil seal had gone
and the belt had jumped 11 teeth.

>For ultimate accuracy, a beam-type torque wrench with a light/alarm.
>Otherwise an assistant to read the scale or a click-type. There are
>several ways to jam breaker bars in the front of the car to hold a
>crank to this torque. One of the drifts I carry in the toolbox also
>fits the flywheel hole.

> Another no no.  The hole for the flywheel in the trans can crack the
trans
casting very easily.  It's for the old vag tool, not for jamming the
flywheel.

That's how the factory rally team did it.  I've never heard of the
bell housing being damaged.

The crank locking tool is no issue compared with the 3036 cam gear
locking tool.  You HAVE to move the cam to get the 3036 to hold, and
it's quite a long way.  Leaving the belt on is by far the best way.

The ur-quattro is more difficult than other cars regarding clearance -
it's even worse if the car has had any accident damage to the front.

--
  Phil Payne
  http://www.isham-research.com/quattro
  +44 7785 302 803
  +49 173 6242039