quattro digest, Vol 1 #3585 - 14 msgs
Rick Houck
rhouck at neo.rr.com
Wed Jun 26 23:28:24 EDT 2002
Mike,
I have a good radiator from my 1986 CS turbo donor car. I removed it when I
took out the engine to put into my coupe, and it is good as far as I know.
Make me an offer if interested. I have the fan and shroud too.
Rick Houck
Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <quattro-request at audifans.com>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 5:44 PM
Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #3585 - 14 msgs
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re:removing ac on 5KTQ - BTDT anyone? (Kneale Brownson)
> 2. Re:Stock Eurovan 2.5 compression? (Per Lindgren)
> 3. Re:Dash lights on '86 5ktq (Zsolt Kovacs)
> 4. 4kq tranny oil update (Brady Moffatt)
> 5. Re:WTB used Bentley manual for 84-88 5000 and K-24 (Kneale Brownson)
> 6. Roughly $500 saved! Yahoooo! Re: Help? (Robert Myers)
> 7. Need a 5ktq Radiator (Mike Veglia)
> 8. New Timimg Belt/Water Pump 1990 200TQ BTDT'S (Blake Gibb)
> 9. Re:[s-cars] Roughly $500 saved! Yahoooo! Re: Help? (Chris
Covington)
> 10. Re:Dash lights on '86 5ktq (JordanVw at aol.com)
> 11. 86 5kcsqa Parting out (Iain Mannix)
> 12. re:stereo woes (j fizz)
> 13. RE:Need a 5ktq Radiator (TM)
> 14. Re:re: stereo woes (scott thomas)
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:10:48 -0400
> To: "Livolsi, Stephane" <Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com>,
> Audi Quattro List <quattro at audifans.com>
> From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
> Subject: Re: removing ac on 5KTQ - BTDT anyone?
>
> --
> That's the evaporator box, Stephane. There are four screws holding it to
> the firewall. You can get to the screw heads from behind the
> glovebox. You'll probably have to push the glued in insulation aside
> slightly. The screws are just a bit outside the corners of the opening
for
> the recirculation flap. When I removed this from my 5ktq, I screwed a
> block of pressure treated wood over the opening. You'll also have to
> provide some kind of bracket to hold the air temperature sensor that's in
> the top of the evaporator box (under trapezoidal cover). You need the
> sensor connected to have the blower operate.
>
> At 08:33 AM 06/25/2002 -0500, Livolsi, Stephane wrote:
>
> >I've got most of the big stuff out but am having trouble getting the
final
> >major component out. Hoping someone has BTDT and can offer tips.
> >
> >The piece I am having trouble with is where the cold air is drawn into
the
> >blower motor, under the hood, up against the firewall. It looks like a 2
> >piece plastic box with a radiator inside (condensor?evaporator? I don't
know
> >about these things). It also has the flapper that switches from fresh to
> >recirculated air.
> >
> > Anyway, does anyone know where the screws or bolts are that hold this
thing
> --
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 22:19:40 +0200
> From: Per Lindgren <lindgre at online.no>
> To: nicksimc <nicksimc at plu.edu>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: Stock Eurovan 2.5 compression?
>
>
>
> nicksimc wrote:
>
> >Actually the last year before the complete VR6 takeover (96?), the
Eurovan
> >had a 2.6l 5-cylinder with the same compression as the previous year's
> >2.5l. This was in the US, but Europe usually has more engine choices
> >than we do, so I'm sure they had it too.
> >
> There has never been a 2.6 in Europe. We had 2.5 gas or TDI and 2.4 na
> diesel. I do know that South Africa has a 2.6 in the Vanagon, which is
> still in production there.
>
> PerL
> 87 Cq
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:28:46 -0600
> From: Zsolt Kovacs <zsolt1 at telusplanet.net>
> To: Paul Meyers <paul.meyers at citrix.com>
> Cc: 'MATT BLIEFERNICH' <bliefernich at msn.com>, quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: Dash lights on '86 5ktq
>
> I have had these weird dash light sometimes work sometimes they don't
> problems as well, however, if I turn the lights on before I turn on the
> ignition they always work. Give it a try.
>
> Cheers,
> Zsolt
>
> Paul Meyers wrote:
>
> >It's the relay (actually called an "instrumentation booster" in the
manual)
> >above the glove box. Be aware that Audi wants $300 for this little gem,
> >since it's actually a complicated transistorized gizmo with surface
mounted
> >components on a dual-sided circuit board. You will want to get a used one
> >from Chris Semple at force5auto.com.
> >
> >Paul Meyers
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: MATT BLIEFERNICH [mailto:bliefernich at msn.com]
> >Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 12:24 PM
> >To: quattro at audifans.com
> >Subject: Dash lights on '86 5ktq
> >
> >
> >
> >In an earlier message (a few weeks ago) I indicated that my dash lights
come
> >on when I turn the headlights on but then will go off to maybe come back
on
> >in a few minutes maybe not. I changed the license plate lights and it
still
> >happens. A few people suggested I check the dimming switch. Since I had
> >just bought the car I did not have all the information. Now the same
> >problem occurs but the center console lights had never come on. The come
on
> >sometimes along with the rest of the dash lights and the dimmer works
> >perfectly, they never turn off when this happens. Other times just the
dash
> >lights come on, the dimmer does not work and fiddling with it does
nothing,
> >they go out after a few minutes and might come back on, only to turn off
> >again. Any thoughts? Could it be just the dimmer switch is
malfunctioning?
> > Or is it the relay above the glove box (another suggestion last time?)
I
> >am not much of an electrician but if I can figure out what is wrong I
have
> >freinds who could help me fix the problem. Any suggestions are welcome.
> >
> >Matt
> >81 4000s 5+5 2 door
> >86 5000cs tq
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> >http://www.hotmail.com
> >
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 4
> From: "Brady Moffatt" <bradym at sympatico.ca>
> To: "quattro" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: 4kq tranny oil update
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:47:04 -0400
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just changed the tranny/not rear diff oil. I used Redline MT90 for
1.9liters
> ($38.16CDN) and some leftover Redline MTL for the remaining 300ml. So I
> guess I have MT87 or something. Anyways, it still whines a bit. I've only
> driven 5km with it though. Only 1.5liters or so came out. I think it was
> Mobil GL5.
>
> How long does it take to quiet down (if it's going to)? I would imagine
not
> long.
>
> Finding that 17mm hex socket was tougher than I thought. Ended up buying
it
> at an industrial tool store ($20CDN!). Canadian Tire, Sears, Home Depot
> didn't have anything bigger than 10mm.
>
> All the oil went in with a nifty little fluid pump I bought years ago for
> 15$CDN. One hose in the Redline bottle, the other in the tranny. Pump
away.
> Works great.
>
> Total cost: $58.16CDN. Not cheap, but worth it, I hope.
>
> Besides, if I'd gone to a garage they would have charged me $20 labour.
> Instead, I get to keep this cool socket for the same price.
>
> Cheers,
> Brady Moffatt
> Montreal, Quebec, Canada
> 86 4ksq, 288,000km
> 86 4ksq, 208,000km parts car
> 72 Datsun 240Z, 180,000 miles
> In early stages of quattrosis accumulatus
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.372 / Virus Database: 207 - Release Date: 6/20/02
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:53:31 -0400
> To: <audi90sq at yahoo.com>, quattro <quattro at audifans.com>
> From: Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com>
> Subject: Re: WTB used Bentley manual for 84-88 5000 and K-24
>
> --
> You might check with Chris Semple at Force5 (auto wreckers). He sometimes
> has old manuals.
>
> At 11:08 AM 06/25/2002 -0700, audi90sq at yahoo.com wrote:
>
> >Does anybody have an old (AKA cheap) set of 84-88 5000
> >Bentley manuals that they no longer need. I am
> >looking for a set to use for an MB conversion. They
> >don't have to be pretty.
> >
> >I am also looking for a K-24 that is in good shape. Thanks.
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
> >http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
> --
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:08:25 -0400
> To: "Quattro list" <quattro at audifans.com>, s-car-list at audifans.com
> From: Robert Myers <robert at s-cars.org>
> Subject: Roughly $500 saved! Yahoooo! Re: Help?
>
> Hi Y'all,
>
> I managed to figure the problem out and it works beautifully. The faulty
> channel of the PSO is now sidestepped by rewiring the connectors to use
the
> "spare" channel as a substitute for the faulty one and the S6 is once
again
> running properly. Retail price on a new PSO is something on the order of
> $380. My fiendly local Audi dealer would have been happy to charge me at
> least another $100 or more in labor charges for a 15 minute job (replacing
> the PSO). The technique for removing the connector terminal from the
block
> requires a special tool which I borrowed from a professional mechanic
> friend. (Available from Snap-On, AAMOF.)
>
> I'd call this a profitable day.
>
> Thanks to a suggestion from Jeff Hemmerlin as passed on by Gary
> Martin. Thanks guys.
>
>
> At 09:52 AM 6/25/02, I wrote:
>
> >Hi Y'all,
> >
> >I'm having a problem with my '95 urS6. Cylinder #2 is not firing. I am
> >reasonably sure that I've traced the problem to a faulty channel on the
PSO
> >(power stage output). I am trying to use the spare channel of the PSO
for
> >cylinder #2. All that I need to do is to move two wire plugs from one
> >connector to another. I know which wires I want to move and that I will
> >need to lengthen one wire enough to be able to do the move. No problem.
A
> >simple butt splice will take care of that.
> >
> >My problem is this: how do I get the plug out of the connector? I have
> >peeled back the black rubber boot and have exposed the "wire side" of the
> >connector. I have removed the innards of the connector from the external
> >portion. Now I'm trying to pull the wire and its individual plug
(socket)
> >from the gang of three (or four depending on which connector). It looks
> >obvious. There is what looks like a little spring "snap" preventing the
> >plug from pulling out of the gang assembly. Simply depress the "snap"
and
> >the wire/terminal should just pull out. Yeah. Right. It doesn't budge.
> >
> >Proper technique? Suggestions? Duh?
> >
> >TIA,
> >Bob
> >*****
> > Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372
> > Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP
> > '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244
> > http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
> >*****
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >---
> >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >Version: 6.0.372 / Virus Database: 207 - Release Date: 6/20/02
>
> Bob
> *****
> Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372
> Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP
> '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244
> http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
> *****
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:36:41 -0700
> From: Mike Veglia <msvphoto at pacbell.net>
> Subject: Need a 5ktq Radiator
> To: quattro at audifans.com
>
> My radiator split in one of the caps last night on the way home from work.
> I'm pretty sure all is okay with the engine, except for my almost new (did
> water pump and timing belt job only about 4k miles ago) water pump (or
> something behind the TB cover) now makes bad noises. I never did get a
> coolant loss alert from Hal, so I need to check the coolant bottle sensor
> now too. The temp gauge never went extremely high, but I suspect things
were
> pretty bad since there wasn't a lot of coolant left when I pulled into the
> carport. After allowing time for the engine to cool I filled up the
cooling
> system to fire the car up to see what was up. Aside from the nasty water
> pump noise I noticed coolant escaping through a split in the (plastic)
> radiator tank right below the upper hose fitting. I know, you all "told me
> so" about these dang plastic tank radiators when I put this one in some
50k
> miles ago. Anyway, true to form this car once again got me home and didn't
> strand me anywhere (I was two blocks from home when I first noticed steam
> from under the hood). I'm pretty sure the head is okay, no nasty steam,
etc.
> from the exhaust and the engine is running fine. Thank goodness for the
4kq
> "spare car" we bought back when my wife's ovloV 850 turbo wagon lost a
> cylinder back in the beginning of the year.
>
> Anyway, I thought I heard a rumor here that all metal Modine radiators for
> our cars are no more? Is this true? If so, I'll likely just get another
> plastic one--I guess. If all metal Modines do still exist, what's the best
> source? (Rod at TPC only has plastic O.E. AKG ones for the not so great
> price of $169.00.)
>
> Mike Veglia
> Motor Sport Visions Photography
> http://www.motorsportvisions.com
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 17:10:54 -0500
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> From: Blake Gibb <lbg1233 at cox.net>
> Subject: New Timimg Belt/Water Pump 1990 200TQ BTDT'S
>
> I am going to change my Timing Belt/Water Pump on my 1990 200TQ 10
> valve this coming weekend. The pump just started leaking and she has
> about 188K on the odometer and I don't know when the prior owner did
> this last. I have all the parts including crank seal. I have rented
> the tool package from Blaufergnugen, hopefully this will make it
> easier. I have read many of the posts here in the archives, read the
> excellent description at the SJM site, and even looked at the less
> than informative Bentley manual. I should be prepared, but if anyone
> out there has any basic hints or tips for doing this job I would like
> to hear about them. I also was wondering how you use the camshaft
> locking tool, I could not find that anywhere in the Bentley manual.
> What are the pros and cons of changing the crank seal? It does not
> appear to be leaking at this point.
> TIA!
> Blake Gibb
> 1990 2CTQ 188K Pearl
> New to me about 5 months ago
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:19:26 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Chris Covington <malth at umich.edu>
> To: Robert Myers <robert at s-cars.org>
> Cc: Quattro list <quattro at audifans.com>, <s-car-list at audifans.com>
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Roughly $500 saved! Yahoooo! Re: Help?
>
> It's stuff like that which me makes happy that I have a lowly 200q20v. ;)
>
> Cov
>
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 10
> From: JordanVw at aol.com
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 18:18:57 EDT
> Subject: Re: Dash lights on '86 5ktq
> To: bliefernich at msn.com, quattro at audifans.com
>
> --
> [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> In a message dated 6/25/02 2:30:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> bliefernich at msn.com writes:
>
>
> >
>
> yes, it is! guaranteed. i had the same prob on my 86 5kt
> chris
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:22:10 -0600 (MDT)
> From: Iain Mannix <mannix at rmsolo.org>
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: 86 5kcsqa Parting out
>
> Hi all - a friend has an 86 5kcsqa that he'd like to part out.
>
> Disclaimers:
>
> I have not seen the car.
> It is not mine.
> It is in MA.
> I do not stand to benefit from this:).
>
>
> OK - it is grey, I _believe_, front left fender is dented,
> interior good, 98% intact.
>
> It has a cracked manifold. The headlights (DOT) are already
> gone.
>
> I'll be putting together a comprehensive list of things that
> are for sale/available/seem good, but if you need something from
> a 5k wagon, email Daryl -
>
> dbeck at mtdata.com
>
> Car is in western MA(Greenfield). Daryl is very trustworthy,
> a good friend, etc etc etc(he won't steer you wrong, basically).
>
>
> Look for a better listing - but if you're after something for
> a wagon part(or T44 part) at a reasonable price, dbeck at mtdata.com
> could be the answer. He bought the car to snag a few bits and
> bobs (trim pieces, brake something or other), wants to find
> good homes for the rest.
>
>
>
> Iain Mannix
>
> (email dbeck at mtdata.com;)
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 12
> From: "j fizz" <iin10ded at hotmail.com>
> To: bkaupp at ugconnection.com
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: re: stereo woes
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 22:52:25 +0000
>
> ben,
> hey there.. bored at work and saw the post, so....
>
> <<So the questions: 1. Is it possible to put 5.25" mids anywhere in the
> front?>>
>
> yes, do some sort of a door or kickpanel buildout to mount a set of 5"
> separates to. i like the doors bc they tend to take less of a beating.
> closer to the footwell = better [you want to try to equalise the
pathlegnth
> from the l+r speakers to your head - ideally] this can be as simple a a
> thick- at ss piece of wood covered to look nice, to give you the mounting
depth
> needed for the magnet to clear the door's guts. if the door is relatively
> flat and fetaure-free, this works like a champ. in contoured doors [my
> memory of the 4000 door is fuzzy], things get a bit trickier. the same
rule
> still applies, but you may have to get more creative in the use of
> marterials. its best to try to seal the airspace of the driver, but its
not
> always possible, and usually very difficult, and most of us have other
> hobbies.
>
> if you cant work out the door speaker, get a nice 4" separate set for the
> dash and keep reading...
>
> <<2. What about 6x9" in the rear shelf? 3. How do you get those front
> speaker grills off? 4. >>
>
> i dont know how to get the grills off.. pull em.
>
> 6X9's suck, plain and simple. this is of course my opiniion. its just a
big
> goofy thing stuffed in the rear deck of every lowered '78 cutlass on earth
> [even sweeter if you stuff 2 pair back there! ;]. better to use a high
> quality coax [boston acoustics, ads, etc..] and spare the stock look [im
> assuming its a 5 inch round or so..]
> the biggest improvement will come from aftermarklet amps with electronic
> crosssovers and a dedicated sub in the trunk. running the front and rear
> speakers through an electronic highpass filter makes a HUGE difference in
> the sound quality, lifespan and mamimum output of the in-car drivers [when
> they dont try to play bass, which theyre not very good at, theyre a lot
> happier]. it doesnt have to be much.. 30 or 40 decent watts per channel
will
> ROCK over any headunit on earth [anyone who tells you different needs a
> drain-o flavored qtip]. throw a couple hundred watts to a single 12 in a
> small sealed box and youll be in car stereo heaven. if you want to play it
> really loud, dont. cuz you dont wanna be "that guy".
>
> if you have 6x9 openings, then cut a baffle in the 6x9 shape and mount
good
> separates to it and screw the whole thing into place. all the car audio
> nerds will think you're "high end".
>
> <<Has anybody had any experience with Nakamichi decks, or have any other
> recommendations for a deck that doesn't just scream Honda (read AMBER
> ILLUMIATION)>>
>
> not so hot on features, and usually low output voltage, but some of the
best
> sounding decks ive heard. the 6 disc single din in dash changer ROCKS.
you
> would have to have a pretty nice rig to justify the sonic differences of a
> nak.
>
> have fun..
> jim
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 13
> From: "TM" <t44tq at mindspring.com>
> To: "'Mike Veglia'" <msvphoto at pacbell.net>, <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: RE: Need a 5ktq Radiator
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 19:42:56 -0400
>
> Mike,
> From what I've heard, no more metal Modines new. However, my mechanic
> was able to get
> me an all-metal radiator from someone else, so they might still be out
> there. This was
> 2 yrs. ago, though.
>
> Taka
>
>
> --__--__--
>
> Message: 14
> From: "scott thomas" <scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com>
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 20:14:21 -0700
> To: iin10ded at hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: re: stereo woes
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
>
> As far as decks go, Eclipse is very nice, but
> will cost you and be somewhat short on features,
> but the line outputs are high voltage in most
> models. They make equipment that sounds good.
> Alpine is what I use, with excellent results. I
> have Rockfords, pulled from my 5ktq (5 1/4")
> stuffed into the 4" front Bose modules and
> Pioneer Premier 6x9's in the rear. Using the
> head unit's amp.
>
> Stay away from Sony. Goofy and unreliable.
> Pioneer is ok, Premier better. Blaupunkt is ok
> and simple.
>
> Good luck!
> ---- Begin Original Message ----
>
> From: "j fizz" <iin10ded at hotmail.com>
> Sent: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 22:52:25 +0000
> To: bkaupp at ugconnection.com
> CC: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: re: stereo woes
>
>
> ben,
> hey there.. bored at work and saw the post,
> so....
>
> <<So the questions: 1. Is it possible to put
> 5=2E25" mids anywhere in the
> front?>>
>
> yes, do some sort of a door or kickpanel
> buildout to mount a set of 5"
> separates to. i like the doors bc they tend to
> take less of a beating.
> closer to the footwell =3D better [you want to try
> to equalise the pathlegnth
> from the l+r speakers to your head - ideally]
> this can be as simple a a
> thick- at ss piece of wood covered to look nice, to
> give you the mounting depth
> needed for the magnet to clear the door's guts.
> if the door is relatively
> flat and fetaure-free, this works like a champ.
> in contoured doors [my
> memory of the 4000 door is fuzzy], things get a
> bit trickier. the same rule
> still applies, but you may have to get more
> creative in the use of
> marterials. its best to try to seal the airspace
> of the driver, but its not
> always possible, and usually very difficult, and
> most of us have other
> hobbies.
>
> if you cant work out the door speaker, get a
> nice 4" separate set for the
> dash and keep reading...
>
> <<2. What about 6x9" in the rear shelf? 3. How
> do you get those front
> speaker grills off? 4. >>
>
> i dont know how to get the grills off.. pull em.
>
> 6X9's suck, plain and simple. this is of course
> my opiniion. its just a big
> goofy thing stuffed in the rear deck of every
> lowered '78 cutlass on earth
> [even sweeter if you stuff 2 pair back
> there! ;]. better to use a high
> quality coax [boston acoustics, ads, etc..] and
> spare the stock look [im
> assuming its a 5 inch round or so..]
> the biggest improvement will come from
> aftermarklet amps with electronic
> crosssovers and a dedicated sub in the trunk.
> running the front and rear
> speakers through an electronic =A0highpass filter
> makes a HUGE difference in
> the sound quality, lifespan and mamimum output
> of the in-car drivers [when
> they dont try to play bass, which theyre not
> very good at, theyre a lot
> happier]. it doesnt have to be much.. 30 or 40
> decent watts per channel will
> ROCK over any headunit on earth [anyone who
> tells you different needs a
> drain-o flavored qtip]. throw a couple hundred
> watts to a single 12 in a
> small sealed box and youll be in car stereo
> heaven. if you want to play it
> really loud, dont. cuz you dont wanna be "that
> guy".
>
> if you have 6x9 openings, then cut a baffle in
> the 6x9 shape and mount good
> separates to it and screw the whole thing into
> place. all the car audio
> nerds will think you're "high end".
>
> <<Has anybody had any experience with Nakamichi
> decks, or have any other
> recommendations for a deck that doesn't just
> scream Honda (read AMBER
> ILLUMIATION)>>
>
> not so hot on features, and usually low output
> voltage, but some of the best
> sounding decks ive heard. =A0the 6 disc single din
> in dash changer ROCKS. you
> would have to have a pretty nice rig to justify
> the sonic differences of a
> nak.
>
> have fun..
> jim
>
>
>
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