removing rear crank seal? [5kcstq]

[auditude at get.net]

I should have included the fact that I already have the replacement
seal.  I opted to get that one instead of the one with the new flange
attached.  Is this anti-q-list logic?

I was given the choice by Didi at Carlsen, and picked the cheaper
choice.

So, given that I already have the replacement seal in hand (but
don't have a flange gasket for R&R purposes), what would the best
method of replacement be?

If it is totally foolish to try to replace the seal only, then I will spring
for the new seal including the flange.  Have there been problems
with the separate style leaking or something?  I could use some
sealer (or is that sealant?) at the seal/flange joint, if that is a good
idea.

Thanks,

Ken

On 1 Mar 2002, at 19:06, Phil Payne wrote:

> > I found this post suggesting removal of the whole aluminum flange in
> > order to remove the rear seal.
>
> You might as well, because a new one from Audi will come in its own
> flange.  This is a minor irritation, since you're supposed to place
> the new seal on a different part of the crank to the old one.  Audi
> has cemented the new seal sch that thi shappens the first time - but
> if the seal you take out is an integral part of the flange then you
> have to displace the new one slightly.  Two or more gaskets is one
> idea.
<snip>
> > Is this the easiest or best way to remove the rear seal?  I see the
> > crooked tool pictured in the Bentley to pull the seal out.  I'm not
> > against buying that tool.  Where can I find it?  It is not listed on
> > the Zelenda website.
>
> Forget it.  An empty flange with no seal in it is no use to you.