MC1 - while I'm at it..

[Ben Swann]

Thanks Paul, Phil, Jim and others who have been giving input on this.

Well I was just about ready to break down and get the parts for the bottom
end to be sure I am attending to everything while I have the engine out.
 This would involve rod bearing shells, main shells, and rings.

Now I am reluctant, as I was going to just do the cylinder hone by hand,
and use OEM replacement rings, then break in with conventional oil then
convert back to synth.

I was going to plastiguage the bearings for a check and then replace the
shells as they are so cheap.

To me, it is a matter of cracking open the oil pan is an all or nothing
proposition, since it sort of forces me to buy a gasket kit for the bottom
end.

Then once you pull the rod caps, you might as well take out the pistons and
do the rings.  And then it seems main bearings is not such a big deal
either.

After speaking with my wife who is usually down on doing unecessary work,
we both agreed that it would be "good insurance" to take a little extra
time and money to ensure I won't have to pull the engine again.

I definately don't want to induce a problem that doesn't exist.  I am ok
with painstaking cleanliness and not rushing, but I am not going to take
this to a machine shop.  I have done this stuff on 4-cyl VWs and smallblock
Chevys with no problem, but this is not stuff I get into every day either.

So is there a big risk in lightly hand cylinder honing and replace with OEM
rings?  Or were we just referring to Total Seal.

Ben

On Saturday, March 02, 2002 10:17 AM, Paul R. Cole
[SMTP:bdssprc at wavetech.net] wrote:
> On Fri, 1 Mar 2002 14:19:19 -0500, Paul R. Cole wrote:
> Ben,
>
> The problem with Total Seal rings is that they are very sensitive to cyl.
wall prep and
> piston spacing. If the cyl prep isn't 100% perfect they tend to not seat.
> ( the pattern, wall finish roughness, hone stone material & oil all
contribute to
> sealing ability)
>
> This is NOT a DIY project ( proper cyl wall prep) with these rings.
> ( unless of course you own or have access to a properly equipped machine
shop)
>
> I know many race teams having excellent results but they don't skimp on
the
> machine work and if the block isn't perfect they don't use it.
>
> Having "visual" cross hatching isn't sufficient for modern rings to seat.
> Hell I've got an MC-1 that has 225k on it and there are still "visual"
markings
> on the cyl wall- but I'd sure as hell never expect a new set of rings to
seat on that
> surface.
>
> In a rebuild ( ask Alex about his turbo 80 q leak problem) you must get
the cyl wall
> prep work right or the rings will never seat. Also the rpm variance and
oil used must be
> according to the mfg. reccomendations.
> ( Alex didn't do either right and his engine used WAY too much oil.
Before it burned up
> he was at the point of having to contemplate re-doing the cyl walls to
get the new rings
> to seat and seal.)
>
> Be sure that you tell the machine shop WHICH rings you're using and be
sure they
> understand the required wall finish for that ring set.
>
>
> >I never got an answer on this..Can the block be removed out the bottom
> >without disturbing everything topside?
>
> Not sure what you're asking here? Do you mean can you get the crank/rod
bearings
> out without removing the crank?- Yes.
> You can't get the crank out without unbolting from the tranny.
> Pistons have to come out the top and the ridge has to be removed ( if
it's in the way)
>
> The block itself is best removed out the bottom but requires all the
usual removal of all ancillary
> stuff.
> I find that taking the tranny and engine out together makes the best
sense. getting the input shaft
> back together in the car is a whirlling BITCH of a problem. The angles
and space constraints
> make it a RPITA.  On the other hand putting the engine and tranny
together on the ground
> is easy. It insures the pilot bearing and clutch stuff line up correctly.
>
> I know removing the major drivetrain sounds like a lot of work but in
fact if you're rebuilding
> the engine it makes sense to replace all the tranny and engine mounts
while you're in
> the process.
> Unless you R&R engines for a living the frustration of getting all the
angles right
> to re-install the block ( from the bottom) is a pain. Much simpler and
faster to
> just put the engine tranny back all bolted up.
>
> HTH
> //************************
> Paul R. Cole:
> '84 Coupe (358k and still kicking - the #3 cyl)
> '84 Coupe (SAR) , 85 Coupe parts car
> '89 200TQ (WIP- waiting new engine)
> '90 Coupe Quattro 20V (new daily driver)
> '80 924Turbo ( Carrera  GTR specs)
> Bloomington,MN
> bdssprc at wavetech.net #  Powered by OS/2 Warp 4
> //---------------------------------------