Why are my window switches staying on?

[Roa, Greg]

Great info, thanks a lot Huw!
It appears to be intermittent, as last night, it didn't repeat the
problem.  I'm going to work my way though the possibilities this
weekend.  I think it may be an intermittent short, after checking the
relay, I'm going to dig into the sunroof electronics.  I've had problems
there before.
Thanks again!

Greg Roa
Cincinnati, OH
86' 4kcsq
93' 90 CS
83' 944



>> Got home late yesterday, and noticed a problem when I turned off the
>> car.  Was driving the 86' 4kcsq, and when I shut off the ignition,
and
>> took out the key, the lights on the window switches remained on, as
well
>> as the lights on the sunroof switch.
>> It didn't keep power to the switches to actually move the window
>> regulators, but if I tried the switches, the lights went out while I
had
>> the switch depressed, but came right back on when I let go.  Also, if
I
>> activated the blower fan switch, or the rear defrost switch, the
lights
>> would go out until the switches were back in the off position.
>
>There are a few possible sources of your problem.
>
>Start with the Load Reduction Relay (or "X" relay, named the current
>track it supplies), position 5 in your fusebox.  It is "on" when the
>ignition is in the "run" position, and "off" when the key is "off" or
in
>the "start" position.  This relieves your battery of the load of the
>items on the X circuit while cranking, and also lowers the current load
>on the ignition switch while running.
>
>These items are on the "X" buss:
>
>radiator thermo switch via fuse 15
>fresh air fan switch via fuse 17
>defroster (& seat heater controls) via fuse 16
>power window system, two connections, both unfused (but there should be
>a circuit breaker outside the fuse box in the aux relay panel).
>
>So....
>
>Either
>
>1. your LRR is stuck on
>2. one of the components running off it (or the ignition "on" setting),
>that also has battery power, is shorting internally
>3. your ignition switch is not properly turning "off"
>
>I'd check the relay first.  The other prime culprit (under "2" above)
is
>the headlight switch or connector.
>
>It sounds like a low current leak, ie a very small short, since turning
>those other things on knocks the lights out - and I bet they don;t run
>when you turn them on, either.
>
>-- 
>Huw Powell
>
>http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
>http://www.humanthoughts.org/