Flywheel & Pressure Plate torque specs [was. the damn thing SNAPPED! [was: Re: pressure plate bolt torque?]

[Ben Swann]

I put in the subject line for future searches, as this is not the first
time this has happened.

Ken,

Sorry I didn't see you first posts sooner.  Those are the incorrect specs I
was talking about.

I also have it on good authority that you should never use Locktite Red on
anything you want to be able to dissasemble without heat.  Once that stuff
hardens, you can't get it out without a torch, or you will snap the
fastener.  Use Locktite Blue.  The new flywheel bolts should come with
loctite on them.  The new pressure plate ones don't.

Again the pressure plate bolts should be more like 20 ft pounds not 50 or
70 - those are flywheel to crank specs.  If it feels like it is going to
snap or round out the threads, is probably is.

I always methodically torque stuff like this up, just like a cylinder head
- make alternating star cross pattern, first finger tight, then wrist tight
with a small wrench, then 50% torque then 70%, then 80%, the 90% then 98%
then 99% then 99.8% then 100%.  It takes more time, but you can be assured
your fasteners will be uniformly torqued and you don't snap any fasteners.

Ok, get back to work ;-]>

Ben

[I ordered new bolts.  They do not have anything that looks like a washer.
 These look like regular allen bolts.  I got them from Carlsen.

Here's what just now happened.  I put the pressure plate on and bolted it
up snug.  Then I removed one of the bolts, and I put some red loctite on
it, #27100.  The Bentley calls for locking compound D 000 600.

Then I proceeded put the bolt back in place, using the lower of the two
torque settings, 55 ft lbs, which is for the shouldered bolts.  The
non-shouldered bolt spec is 74 ft lbs.]