Rear caliper question - Need quick answer!

[james accordino]

I haven't even seen it in probably 2 yrs.  All the
calipers I rebuilt (including the first staggering
hand job) are still on their respective cars and
functioning well.  As of this moment.  I also have one
other set in the basement with powder coated castings
that are really nice looking, but the originals are
still working, so I didn't even bother assembling
them.  Again, I only used plain Buna-A o-rings
available at my Pep-Boys in bulk packs.  The tapered
sleeve is probably 2 to 2 1/4 inches long.  Yes, I
used a deep socket and hand pressure.  I thought I
posted that.  I also "detailed my snap rings as
someone else posted, but I didn't "round" the edges.
I used a small smear of Mobil 1 synthetic grease.
Actually, my whole cam chamber is crammed full of the
stuff.  I like it's lube properties on assembly and
seems very stable in inter-fluid contacts and heat
associated break down.  Your description of the
assembly process is correct.  The only way you can
screw this up is to push the socket in crooked.

Jim Accordino
ps- I'm sure you have a small machine shop near you.
Mine's hiding next to a video rental store.  They
should be able to make you one real quick and quite
cheap.

--- Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com> wrote:
> OK, Jim, the tube ID tapers so that as you push the
> snap ring down the
> tube, it gets compressed to the caliper cylinder
> bore ID and, thus, slides
> into the cylinder while your pusher also compresses
> the spring, etc., and
> the entire assembly ends up in the right place when
> the snap ring snaps
> into its recess?
>
> How long is the tube?  Do you use a deep socket?
>
> Do you push with something on top of the socket?
> Use a big C-Clamp or
> something similar?
>
> At 09:49 PM 11/19/2002 -0800, james accordino wrote:
> >No, unfortunately.  It's really simple.  It looks
> like
> >a tube.  The i.d. at the top is the snap ring
> >uncompressed.  The id at the bottom is the bore
> size
> >or about .003" smaller actually.  The only drawback
> is
> >you need one for each different size.  It's only
> >really most critical when you can easily reach down
> >with ring pliers.  This isn't new, my Dad knew
> about
> >it for at least 30 yrs.  Works with ANY type of
> >internal ring.  It take 1 or 2 seconds with a
> driver
> >(I used a deep socket) and hand pressure.
> >
> >HTH
> >Jim Accordino
> >
> >--- Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com> wrote:
> > > Can you supply a pix of this tool, Jim?
> > >
> > > Thanks, Kneale
> > >
> > > At 10:40 PM 11/18/2002 -0800, you wrote:
> > > >When I did my first set, I compressed it with a
> > > >c-clamp and did the snap ring with pliers.
> It's
> > > >really hard just to get the pliers in there.
> Let
> > > >alone with the c-clamp in place.  It took me a
> long
> > > >time and many tries.  The REAL answer is a
> steel
> > > >driver that pushes the snapring/circlip AND
> shaft
> > > down
> > > >at the same time.  One shot with the hydraulic
> > > press
> > > >(or c-clamp) and it's done.  I had mine made
> > > (thanks
> > > >DAD).  The next time with this tool it took me
> 10
> > > >seconds instead of 10 hrs.  Really.
> > > >
> > > >Jim Accordino
> > > >
> > > >--- Per Lindgren <lindgre at online.no> wrote:
> > > > > Quattrophiles,
> > > > >
> > > > > A few days ago, somebody posted the
> procedure on
> > > how
> > > > > to disassemble the
> > > > > rear caliper to free up the handbrake
> actuator.
> > > I
> > > > > did that today, and
> > > > > cleaned up a lot of rust and old goo. Now
> comes
> > > the
> > > > > big question.
> > > > >
> > > > > How the hell do I compress the spring inside
> the
> > > > > caliper to get the
> > > > > circlip back on? The spring is almost as
> hard as
> > > a
> > > > > valve spring, and
> > > > > there's no way I can compress it with the
> > > circlip
> > > > > pliers. This wasnt
> > > > > mentioned in the short writeup either...
> > > > >
> > > > > I could use the answer pretty quickly as I'd
> > > like to
> > > > > try to get at least
> > > > > one caliper finished tonight (it's 9:30 pm
> right
> > > > > now)
> > > > >
> > > > > PerL
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
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> >
> >
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