Car's still broken !!!

[Huw Powell]

> Thanks for everyone's suggestions.  I ordered a new intake boot from
> Dad's in Sacramento, and fitted it this afternoon.  I made sure
> everything fitted right and was tightened properly.  Unfortunately IT
> STILL WONT START !!!
>
> I made sure the crank-case bleeder hose (?goes from the RHS of the
> bottom of the block to the bottom of the intake boot?) was tight,
> carbon cannister is re-fitted, and everything.
>
> It does the same thing as before - starts, then dies within about a
> second or less.

oops, then we need to take another tack... first, the possibility that
you had a bad air leak *before*, and the car ran kind of ok - ie it was
tuned to run with the leak.  Then you fixed the leak... and now the fuel
mixture setting is way off, ie much too rich probably.

You could try turning the 3mm hex adjustment between the fuel
distributor and boot/air plate counter-clockwise to lean it out, maybe
1/3 of a turn at a time.

Also, in parallel, you should do the good old spark/fuel/air routine.
Are you getting spark after that "almost start"?  Fuel?  Air?

If you have all 3 then they must just be in the wrong ratio.  If one is
missing or weak, then you have a identified a problem to fix.

> I haven't followed the rest of this thread so I'm not up on the trouble
> shooting you have already done(and my mail browser is being pissy so I
> can't go back and review right now) but.... have you tried sticking a
> regular relay in place of the fuel pump relay?

Nate, I should slap you in person!  At least, to the best of my
recollection, this *will not* work.  The FPR does not get its signals
from the same four pins as a single pole relay - probably to prevent
people doing the swap as a hack, disabling the safety features built in
to the proper part.  of course, jumping the two big slots where it goes
will test the fuel pump operation  (jumper = two spades, short heavy
wire with 10-15 amp fuse in it)

--
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/

http://www.humanthoughts.org/