Good Denver area Welders?

[JShadzi at aol.com]

When I did mine, I spot welded the whole thing together on a jig (a spare bottom end, head, and intake manifold) with a bracket that held the flange in precisely the exact place the turbo needed to go.  I built the bracket in the engine compartment, then transferred it over the to the spare engine on a stand.  Since the clearance of the turbo and header is often under 1", the placement of the turbo flange was super critical.

Once I had everything spot welded I had a friend of mine who is certified TIG finish it up, I just didn't want to take the chance of the thing cracking or leaking, or worse, warping all the hell and being unuseable.

I used the 304 sch. 10 weldels too, over 15k miles and nary a sign of a crack, I'm convinced the think will never crack, its a really nice solid peice, about 5 lbs lighter than a MC one-piece manifold too.

In my estimation, based on dyno tuning I've been doing for my car and 034efi customers, the header and big hybrid turbo are worth about 30-40 more hp over a stock exh. manifold and K26 at 15psi.

Javad

In a message dated 10/29/2002 11:26:53 AM Eastern Standard Time, Jim Green <jeg1976 at yahoo.com> writes:

>> what better time to learn?  If you really want a pro
>> to do it, look
>> under the yellow pages for welders/fabricators.  I
>> didn't expect to find
>> much but there were in fact several listings in my
>> area.
>>
>> what grade/thickness stainless pipe were you going
>> to use?  Supplier?
>> Cost?  I've been flirting with the idea of
>> fabricating a header as well.
>
>I'm definatly going to give it my best, and use a pro
>as a last resort.  My plan is to use 1 1/4"  304 SS
>schedule 10 pipe, and weld els.  I'm having all the
>flanges water jet cut out of 1/2" 304 SS by a buddy at
>work.  Once I get the flanges back, and I know they
>will fit, I'll make the AutoCAD drawings available.
>I'll do the downpipe out of 304 SS as well.
>
>My Dad is an Electrical Contractor and has some really
>nice benders that will come close to mandrel quality.
>The only problem is the radius's might not be tight
>enough.  I'm going to try and see if I can bend most
>of it, and use the weld els only the really tight
>places.  I'll know more after Friday, I'm going down
>there to play in the shop for a few hrs.
>http://www.mcmaster.com has all the pipe and fittings,
>I've found a local shop, Redman, that I'm probably
>going to use.
>
>As far as price goes, I'm just kind of going with it.
>I hope I'll have less than $500 into the header and
>the downpipe by the time I'm done.  I'm loosing my
>garage, in Jan:(, and it's the last major thing I want
>to do to the car, so I'm just doing it.
>
>Later,
>
>=====
>Jim Green
>'89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5
>http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html
>
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