DOT Headlamps buckets

Huw Powell human747 at attbi.com
Thu Oct 31 18:41:08 EST 2002


> I am probably alone in this case, but I want to reinstall the original 4 square DOT-approved headlamps on my 1983 WX Canadian urQ.

Not that rare, since you can get H4 and H1 lenses for those brackets.  A
few people have retro-fitted later 4k's, 5k's, and coupes with those
pieces.

>  The car is presently fitted with non-correct Euro single-H4 (from an early Audi 80).  Yesterday, I bought the parts from an Audi wrecker; 2 chromed plastic trims from a 1982 4000, and what I believed was 2 nice, complete Hella-made DOT brackets/adjusters/chrome rings from the same car. 60 $CAN for the lot.
>
> The problem is: I found a tag stating 1985 Audi 5000 on the brackets

>
> Question 1: Are those the same as the ones for 4000/Coupe/urQ ? Russian ETKA don’t help, they don’t show the US DOT setup for the 84-85 5000.

No, there are three different animals of the quad rectangular brackets,
that is, type 43 (80-83 5000), type 44 (84-85 5000), and type 81/85
(80-84 4k, coupe, UrQ).  The mounting tabs from the bracket proper to
the car's body are different for each body style.  And of course they
each have different trim bezel things.

Of course, maybe the ones you have are mistagged...

Here are some part numbers (left first, right in parentheses):

type 81/85:
bracket - 813 941 027 A (028 A)
trim - 857 941 625 (626) or 813 941 625 C (626 C)

type 43:
bracket - 437 941 027 (028)
trim - 433 941 625 A (626 A)

type 44:
bracket - 443 941 027 (028)
trim - 443 941 625 (626)

The astute reader will notice a pattern to these numbers.  Platform
specific parts usually start with the two character code for that
platform, and the same part in different disguises still has the same
last six characters.  Amazing.

So if you dig out your parts, just look at the first two digits of the
ones you're worried about, and if they are 81 or 85, you should be ok.
if they are 43 or 44, odds are they aren't going to fit.

> Question 2: I will do the relay upgrade at the same moment; should I run a dedicated wire from the battery to feed them or I can use the BAT post at the back of the alternator ?

Either, though I think with the back seat mounted battery cars the
options usually chosen between are the alternator output or the jumper
post.

I prefer the alternator output, it's easy and nearby (though I guess the
jump post is, too). Whatever suits your wiring plans the easiest is the
way to go.  Don't forget to install a fuse right at the source of this
wire to protect it.

--
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/

http://www.humanthoughts.org/



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