sizzling rear rotors

[B Vibert]

I recently had a similar problem with rear brakes sticking on a
little.  I couldn't find anything wrong with my calipers and looked a
bit further.  Seems I had a crushed brake line.  It could let fluid in
under pressure but still held some even when it was released upstream.
In my case the line was crushed by the axle when the strut broke in
the Ontario Winter Rally.  I've also heard of flex lines collapsing on
the inside and doing the same thing.

Burl Vibert
1987 5kcstq
Kingston, Ontario



Kneale Brownson wrote:
>
> --
> There are reports of the master seeming to seize and maintain pressure on
> the hydraulic lines, causing them to hold the pistons out and keep the pads
> against the rotors.  This has been attributed on occasion to the MC warping
> slightly (it's in a really hot place under the hood and the heat from the
> engine somewhat passes that spot to get to the vent provided via the
> opening at the back of the driver side fender.
>
> One test would be to drive till you have the symptoms you describe and then
> lay a wet towel or pour some cold water over the MC to see if that relieves
> the conditions quickly.
>
> At 02:06 PM 09/09/2002 -0700, Ron Wainwright wrote:
>
> >  kneale,
> >
> >   I didn't go that far
> >  I cleaned everything and made sure that the pistons
> >moved freely in and out without much force,
> >other than that the calipers SEEM to work fine.
> >  Is there a way to check the master or is it a fix and
> >see thing?
> >Thanks
> >Ron
> >
> >
> >
> >--- Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com> wrote:
> > > At 03:34 PM 09/07/2002 -0700, Ron Wainwright wrote:
> > >
> > > >   listers,
> > > >
> > > >   I'v been having a recent problem with my 87 5ksq
> > > non
> > > >turbo that goes like this,
> > > >  I was coming to a stop sign up a little hill when
> > > I
> > > >stoped I put the car in nutreal but I didn't roll
> > > back
> > > >car kinda felt like it had the E-brake on
> > > >  so when I got home I checked it and noticed that
> > > the
> > > >rim and rotor were very hot to the touch so the
> > > next
> > > >day I took the caliper apart thinking that the
> > > piston
> > > >was frozen but it wasn't ( and my E-brake cables
> > > have
> > > >been disconected prior) and blead the system
> > > >  didn't notice any thing after that for a week
> > > then
> > > >while pulling in the driveway at night I noticed
> > > the
> > > >rear driver side rotor was glowing red but I know
> > > that
> > > >the calipers are working
> > > >  what should I be looking at rear wheel bearings,
> > > >brake master
> > > >  allso my brake warning light has been on for a
> > > while
> > > >as well the one on the auto display orange triangle
> > > >with BRAKE flashing could this be cause of the
> > > master
> > > >being bad or brake servo
> > > >  I run ATE front rotors with aftermarket HP pads,
> > > rear
> > > >ATE rotors with aftermarket HP pads, SS lines at
> > > all
> > > >corners, and ATE super blue fluid
> > >
> > > What does it mean that you "took the calipers
> > > apart", Ron?  Did you take
> > > the piston out of the caliper and remove the
> > > threaded rod it rids on so you
> > > could clean out the E-brake actuater chamber?
> > >
> > > If you did that and still have calipers actuating
> > > inappropriately, I'd say
> > > you have a master cylinder problem.
> > >
> >
> >
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