R&R Clutch Slave Cylinder - Extended Punch Method

[Eric_R_Kissell at whirlpool.com]

My strategy was to drive out the roll pin that holds the clutch slave from
the wheel well, where you have room to swing the hammer.   First, remove
the spring retaining clip.  Soak the roll pin with penetrating oil as best
you can for as long as you can before trying to drive it out. I recommend
KROIL penetrating oil.

I cannot remember for sure which side of the car I worked from, but it
seems like I worked from the drivers side. Maybe someone else can confirm
which side. Whichever side you work from, jack up the car, support it with
a jack stand, and remove the wheel.  Then guide an extended punch in
through by the tie rod to the roll pin.

You don't have an extended punch, do you?  Me either.  I used some
Craftsman socket extensions from my 3/8" drive set.  Here is my procedure:

1. Select a punch that is the appropriate diameter to drive out the roll
pin
    (sorry, I cannot recall what size).
2. Put the hitting end of that punch into the wrench end of a long (10")
extension for
    your 3/8" drive socket wrench.  If you do not have a long extension go
to Sears
    and get one.  I use my extensions frequently on my Audis.  I have a
set of three
    extensions: 10", 6" and 3" lengths.  This set of 3 extensions goes for
about $20 at Sears.
    Note that you can connect different lengths together to get a variety
of lengths up to 19".
    You may need to do this to get things the right length to drive out
the clutch slave roll pin.
3. Wrap a little bit of duct tape around the punch and socket extension to
hold
    them together.
4. Take your biggest diameter punch or an end wrench or something and hold
it
    along the punch and extension so that it bridges the joint between the
punch
    and extension.  We are using this to splint the joint.  The longer the
"splint" the
    better it can stiffen things up.  Wrap this with duct tape the entire
length of
    your splint.
5. Put a socket on the other end of the extension that you do not mind
hitting with a
    hammer.  I have a cheap set of Chinese or Taiwanese sockets that I
purchased
    and keep around for exactly such an abusive task.  I would never think
of using my
    SnapOn sockets for this.  Craftsman, maybe.  Select a socket that is a
good size to
    hit, say 1/2" or 13mm.

Note that after splinting the punch may not be aligned perfectly with the
long axis of the punch.  This is OK.  It actually helped me because I was
able to align the punch better with the roll pin and still get the
extensions out by the tie rod because of the angle of the punch.  As long
as your splint is securely attached (love that duct tape) you can get a
pretty good whack through to the roll pin.

HTH,
Eric Kissell
1991 200q 20V Avant (eBay prize)
1989 200q Avant, 1.8 Bar (qlcc)
1986 5000cstq, 1.8 Bar (SJM), Bilsteins
1987 VW GTI 16V, 1984cc - FOR SALE