TDC 10V KH or MC 1 & 2

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Luke:
If TDC at the piston differs with the cam mark,
or the trans flywheel mark go one more crank revolution.
This should cure/eliminate one variable.

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/ecusys.html browse around.

"Check the alignment of the distributor hall effect sensor by locating the
engine at top dead center on Cyl. #1, check the flywheel mark, the cam gear
mark and that the distributor rotor is pointing toward the notch on the rim
of the distributor.

Timing sensors and connectors

As mentioned previously, you can crank the engine over for 5 seconds and
leave the ignition turned on, and then check for any stored fault codes.
This can help verify the timing sensors are ok if no fault codes are stored.
If you get a stored fault code for one of these timing sensors, check the
RPM and Timing Sensor connections at the firewall bracket.

Other possibilities: You lost the rpm or timing reference sensor.
The TDC reference pin is gone or damaged.
The flywheel teeth are damaged.

You may want to remove the two sensors and make sure the clutch has not come
apart which may have somehow damaged the timing sensors or flywheel.

Audi Parts

Engine Mechanical

Do a compression check to verify that each cylinder has the correct
compression. Verify the crank pulley (vibration damper), cam pulley and
distributor rotor are turning when the engine is cranked over. Check the
timing relationship between the TDC flywheel timing mark, camshaft mark and
distributor #1 cylinder mark. In some cases, the crankshaft woodruff key can
be sheared off if the crank pulley bolt gets loose and this will radically
disrupt the timing and possibly damage the valves."
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
ok... i tried it at 0/hash mark on the flywheel...
now the cam gear's mark is way off...
but the 1 cylinder is at the top....
no spark...
from now on ill assume this is TDC...
before i was rotating it until i had a compression stroke
on cyl 1 (plug it with my finger until it blows out) which
corresponded with the cam gear marking...