I now have some clutch...but

[jason snider]

[ Converted text/html to text/plain ]

Thanks Doyt and Marc.  The brake master cylinder is brand new. I just
installed it because of the dragging brake problem on all 4 brakes. I took the
opportunity to upgrade my G54s to G60s and went to the vented setup on the
back. I also put on new stainless lines. I think the brake and clutch problems
will fix themselves when I pressure bleed today. I was just curious about
bleeding the slave again....if I should reverse pressure bleed it or pressure
bleed from the reservoir ( I made a setup to pressure bleed using an air
compressor)? Also, only the front brakes are dragging. It's not as bad as when
the MC went bad, buit the fronts get smelly even on a short drive. I am not
sure if I installed the pads with the retaining clips correctly. Hmmm...I
painted the calipers before I put them on too. Could paint keep the pistons
from fully retracting? Again thanks for the ideas. I'm going to go try my luck
now.

Jason

'86 5ktq
>From: "Doyt W. Echelberger"
>To: "jason snider"
>Subject: Re: I now have some clutch...but
>Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 07:39:33 -0400
>
>Jason......Almost every older Audi 5000 arrives at a condition of
>"creeping brake drag." As you drive the car, the brakes start
>dragging and it gets worse and worse until you need to use a lower
>gear than usual to even keep the car moving. If you let up on the
>accelerator, the drag will stop the car without the driver touching
>the brakes. And the brakes smoke. And they wear out early.
>
>The only reliable solution is to install a new master cylinder.
>Failing of the old master cylinder is the cause of the condition.
>
>Your car is a 1986, and will or has developed this condition. If you
>haven't replaced the master cylinder during the life of the car, it
>is likely that you should do that. Many people have had 3 or 4 new
>master cylinders in the life of their vehicle.
>
>My 1987 5ktq developed this condition this year, and I solved it
>with a new master cylinder.
>
>Now the brakes don't drag and smoke any more.
>
>You may have pushed your old master cylinder into the described
>failure mode by pumping and bleeding the brakes during the recent
>brake job. That would be my guess.
>
>You could try pouring cold water over the master cylinder to see if
>it temporarily relieves the condition. If that helps, it further
>points toward the master cylinder as the cause of the problem.
>
>Doyt Echelberger
>Ohio USA
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>ERIC SPEAKS:
>
>From: RubEric at aol.com
>Subject: Master Cylinder Sticking
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 17:13:42 EDT
>
>I have replaced master cylinders on my Type 44 three times due to
>the
>sticking problem and resulting overheated brakes. I think it is the
>nature of the
>beast.
>Twice I have gotten home by cracking the lines at the master
>cylinder to
>release the pressure, using the handbrake to stop and driving VERY
>CAREFULLY!!!
>
>Eric
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>RON SPEAKS (notice, he had just bled the brakes
>after some brake work):
>
>From: Ron Wainwright
>Subject: sizzling rear rotors
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 15:34:34 -0700 (PDT)
>listers,
>
>I'v been having a recent problem with my 87 5ksq non
>turbo that goes like this,
>I was coming to a stop sign up a little hill. When I
>stopped I put the car in neutral but I didn't roll back.
>The car kinda felt like it had the E-brake on
>so when I got home I checked it and noticed that the
>rim and rotor were very hot to the touch. The next
>day I took the caliper apart thinking that the piston
>was frozen but it wasn't ( and my E-brake cables have
>been disconnected prior). I bled the system and
>didn't notice any thing after that for a week, then
>while pulling in the driveway at night I noticed the
>rear driver side rotor was glowing red but I know that
>the calipers are working.
>What should I be looking at rear wheel bearings,
>brake master cylinder?
>Also my brake warning light has been on for a while
>as well the one on the auto display orange triangle
>with BRAKE flashing could this be cause of the master
>being bad or brake servo?
>I run ATE front rotors with aftermarket HP pads, rear
>ATE rotors with aftermarket HP pads, SS lines at all
>corners, and ATE super blue fluid
>any help would be great
>Thanks
>Ron
>
>
>
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>At 06:52 AM 8/17/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>>[ Converted text/html to text/plain ]
>>Thanks for the replys about my dry clutch guys. I made some
>>progress, but I
>>still have problems. I reverse bled the clutch and did the 4 brakes
>>in the
>>correct order. Well, my clutch works, but it has about 3" of travel
>>before it
>>starts to engage. I think this can be fixed with further bleeding,
>>correct?
>>The brakes are mushy too. I used the brake pump method, so I think
>>I'll try to
>>pressure bleed them tomorrow. Now...can I apply pressure to the
>>brake
>>reservoir and bleed the brakes AND the slave, or do I need to
>>reverse bleed
>>the slave again? Also, after the initial test drive I came back and
>>the front
>>brakes were smoking. I just intalled used G60's. I wasn't sure how
>>to install
>>the pads with the retaining springs. Should I have to pry on the
>>springs to
>>get the caliper over them? Could this cause my brake drag or do you
>>think my
>>pistons are frozen? I'll bleed them all again tomorrow and check
>>the pistons.
>>Any ideas are appreciated though!
>>Thanks,
>>Jason
>>'86 5ktq
>>
>>
>>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>Protect your PC - Click here[1] for McAfee.com VirusScan Online
>>
>>===References:===
>> 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMEENUS/2755??PS=
>

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. [1] Get 2 months FREE*.

===References:===
  1. http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUS/2749??PS=