Crimp vs. Solder & wire coloring?

[SJ]

> From: David <duandcc_forums at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: Re: Crimp vs. Solder & wire coloring?
> To: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>, quattro at audifans.com

> > ***** Run them without relays? Did you check the new current flow with E
> lights? Your stalk switch may crash and burn. Thats what relays prevent.

> Why would using H4s cause any more current flow than my 9007s? They are
the same wattage...just making sure I don't fry anyting when I run the
lights without relays. As I said I want to switch to the H4s withut relays
so I can judge how much of a change the H4s have given, then how much of a
change the relays make. I have access to various light meters, so I will be
chcking output at each stage...

###### Thats an assumption that I did not make . . and I did not know . .
.that the different lamps are same wattage. I erred on the side of caution.
Before and after voltage checks would also be a good idea. Remember to
duplicate actual conditions. The voltage drop at the lamp might be greater
after the car, and the lamps, and all the wires and connectors are fully
warmed up. Heat causes resistance, which causes more heat, which causes more
resistance . . which causes more of a voltage drop at the lamp.

"Hella has done studies which show that a 10% loss in voltage equals a 30%
loss in light output!  Several people have measured at least this much
voltage loss from the stock wiring (which will be fixed by using a relayed
wiring harness)."  http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/eurolights.html

On my truck, the battery voltage(engine running) was 13.6, headlight voltage
was 11.0 volts.
After I put in relays, new harness and new lamp connectors, the battery
voltage was 13.6 and the headlight voltage was 13.4.

SJ