urQ shaking at speed - SOLVED

[Louis-Alain Richard]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--
Hi all,

A couple of months ago, I asked inputs to resolve a light shimmy at the
steering wheel. Many answered but only one was right; front ball joints.
The funny part is no joints were loose in front, according to the standard
testing procedure for McPherson BJ. Even on the bench, they felt OK. I
replaced them anyway since I had 4 new parts (thanks Jim H.) and now the
car is _tight as an a**_ like one lister said.

Historical fact: the joints I got from UK were, I believe, new old-stock
OEM parts from TRW.  The box is dark blue with a red TRW logo, as opposed
to the actual TRW packaging that is light blue and white; the part number
(VAG number only, no TRW part number) is printed on the cover with the
old-style numbering method (mechanical stamping maybe?), they claim _made
in West Germany_  (so before the reunification) and there is no UPC code.

Is my car _that_old_? :-))

The joints I removed from the car were not the correct early-type units
(like the one I installed). Instead, they were the newer style BJ, but FA
states one must replace the a-arms, the front sway bar and links to do
correctly this upgrade. The cost of all this might explain why the PO just
enlarged the slot in the original a-arms to fit the new-style BJ.

BTW, I did all this (2 front joints) in less than 1 hour, installed on my
trusty 4x8 plywood sheets, outside, with hand tools.

Do I qualify as a works rally-team mechanic now?

Louis-Alain,
1983 urQ, now with non-shaking front-end, non-leaking cooling system,
non-leaking oil cooler hoses, faster wipers, starter, window lifts,
brighter headlamps, non-squealing rear main seal, new rotors+pads (F+R),
new hand brake cables, new front wheel bearings, etc.
--
[ winmail.dat of type application/ms-tnef deleted ]
--