brake servo removal -- 84 4000

[Paul S.]

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Hello Andrei,

Your question:
"Also,  is there a way to get solid brake lines , such as those connecting =
to the master cylinder, and the ferrules/flaring ports , other than through=
 a dealer?"

The dealer might not even have these for an older car.
A few years ago I made and installed all solid steel brake lines on a 5000S=
 '83. I believe that the brake line type is the same on the 4000, but the r=
uns are different.
I used 3/16" OD steel tubing: two 25' rolls to replace all lines. Confirm t=
he OD of a line without rust, and don't be surprised that it is not some ev=
en metric size.
The tubing and ferules are available from the auto parts stores. For me it =
was cheaper to buy a few short, 8" preassembled lines and get their ferules=
. You will also find that most of your old ferules are like new on their ma=
ting surfaces.

Tools: tape, pipe cutter, tube bender and double flaring tool (must be good=
 quality, you may consider renting), plus suitable wrenches.

Remove the old lines, make a 3D sketch showing all bends, measure with your=
 tape on the outside of the bends and add an allowance for two flares (1/2"=
 or so) + 1" or so. Before cutting, remember that if your lines are a littl=
e longer, you can compensate between the hangers, but not if they are too s=
hort.

The decision whether to flare before bending the tube, will depend on the e=
nd run's length and the room available for the ferule and the flaring tool.
Put some lube on your flaring die and go only as far as the first step of p=
roducing a standard double flare. You will have at that point a nice bulgin=
g open end flare that will produce a tight fit on the mating surfaces. DO N=
OT DOUBLE-FLARE! The cross section at the ends will be smaller than before,=
 so you might wish to open it up a little with a deburring tool.
Form your line, paying attention to the composite angle bends and remember =
that the last adjustments by the "hand bender" are likely. The bends themse=
lves must be done by a proper pipe bending tool to avoid crushing the mild =
steel tube.
I was told not to paint the lines, but Audi did, so I primed mine and after=
 connecting them together, before installing the hangers, I sprayed the lin=
es with the undercoat.

Obviously, after the installation, you will have to purge the lines and ins=
pect for the leaks periodically. Mine were perfectly tight from the start a=
nd worked safely.

THE INTEGRITY OF THE BRAKE LINES IS AMONG THE MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY CONSIDE=
RATIONS ON YOUR CAR. I AM NOT TELLING YOU TO PRODUCE YOUR OWN LINES. IF YOU=
 DO, IT IS AT YOUR RISK.
However, this method should give better results than reusing old brake line=
s from a scrap yard.

By the way: I used the same technique to replace some rusted fuel lines on =
a 5KTQ '86 and a 5KS '83.

Good luck,
Paul Stefanik
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