HOWTO: Outer CV Boot Joint 80 90 Quattro

[Bhatti, Mohammed]

This write up is when I have to do the CV boot/joint again.  I always end
forgetting something so I thought I better write it out and search the
archives when I need to do this again.  This seems to be a fairly routine
thing but I always seem to have some sort of trouble or forget something so
I thought I better write it down in detail.

Hope any galring errors will be forgiven and corrected.

mohammed
88 80q

Required Tools and Misc.
-----------------------------------
Lots of paper towels/shop rags/rags

Bucket

Plenty of carb cleaner 3-4 cans - use about 1-2

Degreaser 3-4 cans use about 1-2

19 mm wrench

Socket set 11-24 mm (I think you need 11-15mm for the link rod, 19mm for the
strut bolts, 22-24mm for the axle bolt and/or 10mm/14mm hex head wrench
depending on what kind of new bolt is in the boot replacement kit)

Deep socket set as above is also useful

1/2" socket wrench

6" and 9" drive

Rubber hammer

Circlip tightening tool for CV joints (~$19)

Not Necessary But Nice to Have Just In Case
-------------------------------------------------------------
Extra inner and outer (small and large) circlip if you can get a hold of
them

Removal of CV Joint from Axle Shaft
-------------------------------------------------
Loosen wheel bolts (17mm)

Loosen axle nut (20-24mm)

Jack up car

Remove wheel

Remove axle nut

Loosen both lower and upper strut housing bolts (19mm).  Will need deep
socket or wrench (19mm).

Loosen link rod bolt and remove (11-16mm)

Turn steering wheel lock to lock a few times

To remove from strut, pull down on the upper strut/wheel housing.  Might
have to shake and pull until the strut/wheel housing is separated from the
strut.

At this point, the entire wheel assembly separates from the strut and the
axle shaft leaving the end of the shaft with the CV boot and joint exposed

Make sure that the brake line is not under tension.  Either put some support
under the rotor/brake caliper or lower the jack to lower the car so that the
rotor/brake caliper are not under tension

To remove the CV joint, use the axle bolt screw it back in to the axle
shaft.  As you turn the bolt, make sure that the CV joint and axle shaft are
straight.

Have bucket close by and plenty of rags as well.

Keep turning and the joint will pop off.  Will be some/lot of grease
depending on whether boot is torn or not.

Remove bolt.

Next, remove the clips that hold the boot to the axle shaft.

CV joint should be free from axle shaft.

Thoughrly clean end of shaft, degrease joint and inspect ball bearings and
ball bearing housing.

Remove locking ring from end of axle shaft.  This can be done by using a
small flat head screwdriver and levering out the locking ring

The cupped and dished washers can be removed.

Installing CV Boot and Joint
---------------------------------------
Next, with the circlip on the boot, place the boot on the axle shaft.  To
get the boot over the small lip, use needle nose pliers to pull the boot
over the lip.  Careful so that the boot does not rip.

Put on the cupped washer and then the dished washer (I think, but Bentley
has a good picture of this) back on to the axle shaft.

Next, put on the locking ring in the groove at the end of the axle shaft.
Can be done by pushing real hard with both thumbs.  Might need a few tries
to get it in.

At this point, if you feel comfortable, the inner circlip can be tightened
using the CV/circlip locking tool.

Next, making sure that everything is clean - axle shaft, inside of boot,
joint, clean paper towels/rags on the floor, grease the CV joint with the
grease provided.

Line up the CV joint with the end of the shaft and put the joint on.

Using the rubber mallet, bang on the end of the CV joint until the joint is
securely on.  This happens when the joint slips over the locking ring.
Might need to do this a few times i.e. line up, hammer etc.

Now the big end of the boot should easily slip over the joint.  The circlip
should already be on this end.

If everything looks satisfactory, tighten the circlip with the CV/circlip
locking tool.

Re-Installing Wheel housing to Strut Housing i.e. Finishing Up
--------------------------------------------------------------------------Ne
xt, take the rotor/brake caliper housing, line up with the end of the axle
shaft and push the upper part back into the strut.

Might need to do this a couple times to get the hang of this but it should
just kind of slide in fairly easily.  If you get frustrated at this point,
it helps to hit a solid object like the strut a few times.
Make sure you do this with a soft object like an open hand.

Once the wheel housing is back in place on the strut, line up the holes and
place the upper bolt all the way through.  The bolt can be put back on but
do not tighten anything yet.

Next, take the axle bolt and screw it in.  Sometimes the end of the shaft
and bolt might not line up properly i.e. the axle shaft might be a few
millimeters lower than the whole through which the axle bolt goes.  This can
be resolved by pulling up on the axle shaft with one hand and screwing the
axle bolt through with the other hand.  At this point, the axle bolt should
start to 'catch'.  Hand tighten.  You may apply a few turns using a wrench
if you wish.

Next, replace the lower strut mount bolt.  Easiest way is to turn the
steering wheel in i.e. if you are doing the drivers side CV joint (LHD),
turn steering wheel full lock to the right.  It's a tight squeeze to fit the
bolt in because the brake caliper is in the way but you can just about it
slide it in and start hand turning it.  Slowly, it will catch.  Now tighten
it using 19mm socket and wrench.

Tighten upper bolt as above.

Tighten the axle bolt some more but not all the way.

Place wheel back on and hand tighten bolts.

Line up link rod.

Lower car a little, link rod should fall in place.  If not jack up a little,
line up link rod and lower.  Might need to repeat until link rod is in and
bolt is back in place.  Tighten.

With the car on the ground, tighten wheel bolts.

Tighten axle nut.  If the kit includes a regular bolt i.e. that fits a 22-24
mm socket, tighten using socket wrench (I think the required torque is in
the 160-170lbs range)

If the kit includes a hex head (I think 10-14 mm) to get sufficient torque
on the bolt use a socket that fits onto the hex wrench.  Place the hex
wrench and socket fitting in a regular socket wrench or cheater bar and then
tighten axle bolt.