HOWTO: Outer CV Boot Joint 80 90 Quattro

[Mike Robinson]

Thanks for the write up.

Another thing to make sure of is to clean off/degrease your ABS speed
sensor.  I had grease on mine once after a boot change and the ABS did not
function until I cleaned it properly.

Mike Robinson

On 1/14/03 9:32 AM, "Bhatti, Mohammed" <Mohammed.Bhatti at si-intl.com> wrote:

> This write up is when I have to do the CV boot/joint again.  I always end
> forgetting something so I thought I better write it out and search the
> archives when I need to do this again.  This seems to be a fairly routine
> thing but I always seem to have some sort of trouble or forget something so
> I thought I better write it down in detail.
>
> Hope any galring errors will be forgiven and corrected.
>
> mohammed
> 88 80q
>
> Required Tools and Misc.
> -----------------------------------
> Lots of paper towels/shop rags/rags
>
> Bucket
>
> Plenty of carb cleaner 3-4 cans - use about 1-2
>
> Degreaser 3-4 cans use about 1-2
>
> 19 mm wrench
>
> Socket set 11-24 mm (I think you need 11-15mm for the link rod, 19mm for the
> strut bolts, 22-24mm for the axle bolt and/or 10mm/14mm hex head wrench
> depending on what kind of new bolt is in the boot replacement kit)
>
> Deep socket set as above is also useful
>
> 1/2" socket wrench
>
> 6" and 9" drive
>
> Rubber hammer
>
> Circlip tightening tool for CV joints (~$19)
>
> Not Necessary But Nice to Have Just In Case
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> Extra inner and outer (small and large) circlip if you can get a hold of
> them
>
> Removal of CV Joint from Axle Shaft
> -------------------------------------------------
> Loosen wheel bolts (17mm)
>
> Loosen axle nut (20-24mm)
>
> Jack up car
>
> Remove wheel
>
> Remove axle nut
>
> Loosen both lower and upper strut housing bolts (19mm).  Will need deep
> socket or wrench (19mm).
>
> Loosen link rod bolt and remove (11-16mm)
>
> Turn steering wheel lock to lock a few times
>
> To remove from strut, pull down on the upper strut/wheel housing.  Might
> have to shake and pull until the strut/wheel housing is separated from the
> strut.
>
> At this point, the entire wheel assembly separates from the strut and the
> axle shaft leaving the end of the shaft with the CV boot and joint exposed
>
> Make sure that the brake line is not under tension.  Either put some support
> under the rotor/brake caliper or lower the jack to lower the car so that the
> rotor/brake caliper are not under tension
>
> To remove the CV joint, use the axle bolt screw it back in to the axle
> shaft.  As you turn the bolt, make sure that the CV joint and axle shaft are
> straight.
>
> Have bucket close by and plenty of rags as well.
>
> Keep turning and the joint will pop off.  Will be some/lot of grease
> depending on whether boot is torn or not.
>
> Remove bolt.
>
> Next, remove the clips that hold the boot to the axle shaft.
>
> CV joint should be free from axle shaft.
>
> Thoughrly clean end of shaft, degrease joint and inspect ball bearings and
> ball bearing housing.
>
> Remove locking ring from end of axle shaft.  This can be done by using a
> small flat head screwdriver and levering out the locking ring
>
> The cupped and dished washers can be removed.
>
> Installing CV Boot and Joint
> ---------------------------------------
> Next, with the circlip on the boot, place the boot on the axle shaft.  To
> get the boot over the small lip, use needle nose pliers to pull the boot
> over the lip.  Careful so that the boot does not rip.
>
> Put on the cupped washer and then the dished washer (I think, but Bentley
> has a good picture of this) back on to the axle shaft.
>
> Next, put on the locking ring in the groove at the end of the axle shaft.
> Can be done by pushing real hard with both thumbs.  Might need a few tries
> to get it in.
>
> At this point, if you feel comfortable, the inner circlip can be tightened
> using the CV/circlip locking tool.
>
> Next, making sure that everything is clean - axle shaft, inside of boot,
> joint, clean paper towels/rags on the floor, grease the CV joint with the
> grease provided.
>
> Line up the CV joint with the end of the shaft and put the joint on.
>
> Using the rubber mallet, bang on the end of the CV joint until the joint is
> securely on.  This happens when the joint slips over the locking ring.
> Might need to do this a few times i.e. line up, hammer etc.
>
> Now the big end of the boot should easily slip over the joint.  The circlip
> should already be on this end.
>
> If everything looks satisfactory, tighten the circlip with the CV/circlip
> locking tool.
>
> Re-Installing Wheel housing to Strut Housing i.e. Finishing Up
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------Ne
> xt, take the rotor/brake caliper housing, line up with the end of the axle
> shaft and push the upper part back into the strut.
>
> Might need to do this a couple times to get the hang of this but it should
> just kind of slide in fairly easily.  If you get frustrated at this point,
> it helps to hit a solid object like the strut a few times.
> Make sure you do this with a soft object like an open hand.
>
> Once the wheel housing is back in place on the strut, line up the holes and
> place the upper bolt all the way through.  The bolt can be put back on but
> do not tighten anything yet.
>
> Next, take the axle bolt and screw it in.  Sometimes the end of the shaft
> and bolt might not line up properly i.e. the axle shaft might be a few
> millimeters lower than the whole through which the axle bolt goes.  This can
> be resolved by pulling up on the axle shaft with one hand and screwing the
> axle bolt through with the other hand.  At this point, the axle bolt should
> start to 'catch'.  Hand tighten.  You may apply a few turns using a wrench
> if you wish.
>
> Next, replace the lower strut mount bolt.  Easiest way is to turn the
> steering wheel in i.e. if you are doing the drivers side CV joint (LHD),
> turn steering wheel full lock to the right.  It's a tight squeeze to fit the
> bolt in because the brake caliper is in the way but you can just about it
> slide it in and start hand turning it.  Slowly, it will catch.  Now tighten
> it using 19mm socket and wrench.
>
> Tighten upper bolt as above.
>
> Tighten the axle bolt some more but not all the way.
>
> Place wheel back on and hand tighten bolts.
>
> Line up link rod.
>
> Lower car a little, link rod should fall in place.  If not jack up a little,
> line up link rod and lower.  Might need to repeat until link rod is in and
> bolt is back in place.  Tighten.
>
> With the car on the ground, tighten wheel bolts.
>
> Tighten axle nut.  If the kit includes a regular bolt i.e. that fits a 22-24
> mm socket, tighten using socket wrench (I think the required torque is in
> the 160-170lbs range)
>
> If the kit includes a hex head (I think 10-14 mm) to get sufficient torque
> on the bolt use a socket that fits onto the hex wrench.  Place the hex
> wrench and socket fitting in a regular socket wrench or cheater bar and then
> tighten axle bolt.
>