need part # for 88 90q center support bearing

[no1of consequence]

sj,

thanks a lot for the writeup and info.. but to be honest it sounds like an
AWFUL lot of if/maybe/might work to save 50 bux. i think im gladly going to
give blau 110 or 2b 150 and not have to deal with cutting, grinding,
welding, voodoo, etc. ockham's razor, you know?

as for driveshaft adjusting - i spoke to ken at 2b about it yesterday, my
main concern was drivehsaft aligning after reading what i did online about
it i was a little concerned it was difficult or required special tools. he
said they just mark everything and eyebal lit all when done and they never
have problems with them vibrating.

i might still try the string method, but its reassuring that perfect
alignment is maybe not as critical as the descriptions i read make it seem.


thanks,
jim


>From: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>
>To: iin10ded at hotmail.com
>CC: quattro at audifans.com
>Subject: Re: need part # for 88 90q center support bearing
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:52:17 -0400
>
> > Message: 2
> > Reply-To: <sutul at telusplanet.net>
> > From: "Dr. Ian McArthur" <sutul at telusplanet.net>
> > To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> > Subject: RE: '88 90Q Center support bearing - %$(@%@_*!!!!
> > Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 10:12:46 -0700
> >
> > We have four 5TQs and have just done a driveshaft centre bearing.  It
>cost
> > about $250 Canadian (that's 12 dollars US :<)
> >
> > The centre bearing and rubber support were replaced with a BMW piece.
>The
> > driveshaft does come apart and the replacement bearing works just fine.
>
>I recently purchased a center support bearing by Mercedes Benz P/n 123 410
>10 81. This part is made by Weyle of Germany. There is a part number cast
>into the bearing support ring - Meyle 014 041 0045
>The bearing is also an MB part made by Weyle of Germany P/N 014 098 0017.
>
>I think both parts cost me about $50 . . . I dont have the bill to check
>against.
>
>Now the bracket from MB isn't the same as the Audi bracket. But, it looks
>like that audi bearing support is only welded in two spots to its bracket.
>It looks like it may be possible to grind/drill off the welds. Then, place
>the old
>bracket on top of the MB bracket(plenty of room and diameters are close),
>and tack weld it in two spots. Voila!  Its done.
>
>I'm not sure if the MB flanges will interfere with anything . . they may
>have to be ground off.
>
>Best of all, you dont need any skilled labor to do it. The hardest part is
>the welding . . but, two spot welds should'nt cost that much. Actually, you
>might be able to epoxy the MB bracket to the Audi bracket. Some super duper
>epoxy might work. Kind of risky . .if it lets go, the drive shaft will flop
>around there . . .you wont be able to drive. There is enough room on the
>brackets to think up of some mechanical fastening system if you cant get to
>a welder.
>
>Mind you, I havent tried this out yet. But, it sure looks feasible when
>looking at the parts on my desk.
>
> >
> > I do not know the details of how it was done as we farmed it out to a
>firm
> > in Edmonton, Alberta.
> >
> > The replacement centre bearing did not have the correct steel mounting
> > bracket so the repair entailed welding the bottom part of the original
>Audi
> > bracket on to the BMW piece.  It fit perfectly and has no vibration.
> >
> > We manufactured a jig from a commercial steel 2X4 building stud (from a
>home
> > supply depot) to align the driveshaft.  I think this is critical.
>
>
>To align the drive shaft, use a string. Tie one end of the string to front
>  cv joint, the other end to rear cv joint. Make it snug. The string will
>lie
>  along the drive shaft.
>
>  Make some "guages". Get a wood square molding, 1"X1". Cut off 3 pieces
>about
>an 1.5" long. Place the three pieces next to each other on a flat surface
>and make sure the tops are all even with each other. If not, grab all three
>pieces together as one unit, flip them and sand the other side on a sheet
>of
>fine sandpaper laying on a flat surface until all surfaces are even. Now
>you
>have 3 identical measurement blocks.
>
>Slip one block under the string at the front cv joint. Slip second block
>under the
>string at rear cv joint. Use the third block as a feeler guage under the
>string at the center support.
>Adjust center support up or down till that third block just kisses the
>string.
>Do the same for side to side alignment.
>
>This is a lot simpler and cheaper than trying to make/use the alignment
>tool
>that the Bentley shows. And if you use a smooth string, you can set the
>driveshaft straight to + - .020"   . . . . good enough for me.
>
>SJ
>85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
>85 4k - - sold but still on the road
>88 5kq
>90 100q
>
>===============================
>
>no1of consequence iin10ded at hotmail.com
>Tue, 15 Jul 2003 20:21:57 +0000
>
>hey all,
>
>so the clicking noice from the rear o' me quattro i think has something to
>do with the torn rubber of the center support bearing, likely causing the
>propshaft to clunk against the car. the end cv's felt pretty good
>play-wise.
>
>anyone know what the bmw part number is that fits this app? rod at tpc
>doesnt have it handy + isnt sure which fits which. 2bennett has the part
>but
>its $150. i cant imagine the bmw part is that much.
>
>ill be sure to stick this in the ol knowledge base if + when someone has
>it.
>
>thanks up front.
>
>jim
>
>
>

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