need part # for 88 90q center support bearing

[SJ]

I bought my center bearing from Blau . .that was 4 years ago. When you get
it and compare it to the original, you will find that their bearing was
produced in the manner that I described. Easy work for $100 +  profit.

Some of us dont mind cutting, grinding, drilling etc . . . .thats why we
work on our own cars. None of the work is rocket science. I do it in my
garage instead of watching TV. Gets me away from the wife also. The money we
save on parts and labor . . .we buy tools with.
In the end you are always ahead when you do your own work. If you need more
pursuasion, read some of the "monkey lad" stories posted by victims.

Yup, mark everything . .use something that leaves a physical mark . .center
punch, grinder, chisel. Otherwise, you will clean the parts and obliterate
all the marks. BTDT.

You will need the string method of alignment . .. or buy the Audi doodie
tool for $500. Marking stuff will not help you when you install the new
bearing. The new rubber bearing support will position the drive shaft higher
than the old, worn out, sagging, rubber bearing support.
+- .020 tolerance is pretty tight. I bet the string method produces better
results than Audi's tool. It just takes a bit longer to set up.

You can use strings to do wheel alignment also. There is a write up on that
in the archives. I did a quick and dirty string alignment on my 5k when I
replaced the front struts and tie rods.
I then took it for an alignment at the shop. It turns out my string
alignment was dead nuts . . . they didnt have to do anything. So dont knock
these "primitive" methods of doing precise work. They didnt build the
pyramids using laser alignment tools . . .they used strings and water
levels. Not bad for "primitive" tooling aye?

----- Original Message -----
From: "no1of consequence" <iin10ded at hotmail.com>
To: <syljay at optonline.net>
Cc: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: need part # for 88 90q center support bearing


> sj,
>
> thanks a lot for the writeup and info.. but to be honest it sounds like an
> AWFUL lot of if/maybe/might work to save 50 bux. i think im gladly going
to
> give blau 110 or 2b 150 and not have to deal with cutting, grinding,
> welding, voodoo, etc. ockham's razor, you know?
>
> as for driveshaft adjusting - i spoke to ken at 2b about it yesterday, my
> main concern was drivehsaft aligning after reading what i did online about
> it i was a little concerned it was difficult or required special tools. he
> said they just mark everything and eyebal lit all when done and they never
> have problems with them vibrating.
>
> i might still try the string method, but its reassuring that perfect
> alignment is maybe not as critical as the descriptions i read make it
seem.
>
>
> thanks,
> jim
>
>
> >From: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>
> >To: iin10ded at hotmail.com
> >CC: quattro at audifans.com
> >Subject: Re: need part # for 88 90q center support bearing
> >Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:52:17 -0400
> >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Reply-To: <sutul at telusplanet.net>
> > > From: "Dr. Ian McArthur" <sutul at telusplanet.net>
> > > To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> > > Subject: RE: '88 90Q Center support bearing - %$(@%@_*!!!!
> > > Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 10:12:46 -0700
> > >
> > > We have four 5TQs and have just done a driveshaft centre bearing.  It
> >cost
> > > about $250 Canadian (that's 12 dollars US :<)
> > >
> > > The centre bearing and rubber support were replaced with a BMW piece.
> >The
> > > driveshaft does come apart and the replacement bearing works just
fine.
> >
> >I recently purchased a center support bearing by Mercedes Benz P/n 123
410
> >10 81. This part is made by Weyle of Germany. There is a part number cast
> >into the bearing support ring - Meyle 014 041 0045
> >The bearing is also an MB part made by Weyle of Germany P/N 014 098 0017.
> >
> >I think both parts cost me about $50 . . . I dont have the bill to check
> >against.
> >
> >Now the bracket from MB isn't the same as the Audi bracket. But, it looks
> >like that audi bearing support is only welded in two spots to its
bracket.
> >It looks like it may be possible to grind/drill off the welds. Then,
place
> >the old
> >bracket on top of the MB bracket(plenty of room and diameters are close),
> >and tack weld it in two spots. Voila!  Its done.
> >
> >I'm not sure if the MB flanges will interfere with anything . . they may
> >have to be ground off.
> >
> >Best of all, you dont need any skilled labor to do it. The hardest part
is
> >the welding . . but, two spot welds should'nt cost that much. Actually,
you
> >might be able to epoxy the MB bracket to the Audi bracket. Some super
duper
> >epoxy might work. Kind of risky . .if it lets go, the drive shaft will
flop
> >around there . . .you wont be able to drive. There is enough room on the
> >brackets to think up of some mechanical fastening system if you cant get
to
> >a welder.
> >
> >Mind you, I havent tried this out yet. But, it sure looks feasible when
> >looking at the parts on my desk.
> >
> > >
> > > I do not know the details of how it was done as we farmed it out to a
> >firm
> > > in Edmonton, Alberta.
> > >
> > > The replacement centre bearing did not have the correct steel mounting
> > > bracket so the repair entailed welding the bottom part of the original
> >Audi
> > > bracket on to the BMW piece.  It fit perfectly and has no vibration.
> > >
> > > We manufactured a jig from a commercial steel 2X4 building stud (from
a
> >home
> > > supply depot) to align the driveshaft.  I think this is critical.
> >
> >
> >To align the drive shaft, use a string. Tie one end of the string to
front
> >  cv joint, the other end to rear cv joint. Make it snug. The string will
> >lie
> >  along the drive shaft.
> >
> >  Make some "guages". Get a wood square molding, 1"X1". Cut off 3 pieces
> >about
> >an 1.5" long. Place the three pieces next to each other on a flat surface
> >and make sure the tops are all even with each other. If not, grab all
three
> >pieces together as one unit, flip them and sand the other side on a sheet
> >of
> >fine sandpaper laying on a flat surface until all surfaces are even. Now
> >you
> >have 3 identical measurement blocks.
> >
> >Slip one block under the string at the front cv joint. Slip second block
> >under the
> >string at rear cv joint. Use the third block as a feeler guage under the
> >string at the center support.
> >Adjust center support up or down till that third block just kisses the
> >string.
> >Do the same for side to side alignment.
> >
> >This is a lot simpler and cheaper than trying to make/use the alignment
> >tool
> >that the Bentley shows. And if you use a smooth string, you can set the
> >driveshaft straight to + - .020"   . . . . good enough for me.
> >
> >SJ
> >85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
> >85 4k - - sold but still on the road
> >88 5kq
> >90 100q
> >
> >===============================
> >
> >no1of consequence iin10ded at hotmail.com
> >Tue, 15 Jul 2003 20:21:57 +0000
> >
> >hey all,
> >
> >so the clicking noice from the rear o' me quattro i think has something
to
> >do with the torn rubber of the center support bearing, likely causing the
> >propshaft to clunk against the car. the end cv's felt pretty good
> >play-wise.
> >
> >anyone know what the bmw part number is that fits this app? rod at tpc
> >doesnt have it handy + isnt sure which fits which. 2bennett has the part
> >but
> >its $150. i cant imagine the bmw part is that much.
> >
> >ill be sure to stick this in the ol knowledge base if + when someone has
> >it.
> >
> >thanks up front.
> >
> >jim
> >
> >
> >
>
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