What relays to use for Head light relays

[Ameer Antar]

About the crimpers, I know what you guys are talking about. The first ones I had came in a crimp kit and the sucked balls. They were too thin and floppy. I bought another one from Radio Shack actually and it works great. The main difference is that it has a much thicker head, so it doesn't bend, and the crimp "die" (tool is only 1-piece) has a better defined pattern on it unlike the el cheapo brand. I think it cost about $15, and I have found a lot uses for it, like repairing the OE harness and wiring speakers and all sorts of stuff. But that's if you're into working w/ electricals.

If it were me, I would buy new relays, just b/c there are no pick-n-pulls around here in CT. It would make sense to pocket them in SJ's case though b/c a free relay is infintely cheaper than one you pay for, and when that goes bad... more free relays... Too bad that's not for everyone.

W/ regard to Home Depot wire, that stuff sucks. It's really hard to bend b/c of the low strand count and I've bad experiences w/ the wires oxidizing inside the casing. You're better off w/ some automotive wire at the local FLAPS / electrical store or get special wire online.

Last thing about the harness for the bulbs themselves, I believe there is a small adapter harness that is sold to convert from the standard OE bulb configuration to H4 config. (I think the ground and low/hi beam connections are mismatched). The adapter has a male and female which could be cut and spliced at the ends of the setup. You should be able to get it from most auto light places, but I remember that these guys ( http://catalog.com/susq/ ) had a nice page describing them and the reason you need to adapt the OE to H4 setup. They also sell these things for like $2 or something and free if you buy some lamps I believe. Hope this helps a bit. Take care all, and have a nice Thanksgiving.

-Ameer



---Original Message---
>Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 08:59:51 -0500
>From: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>
>Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Message-ID: <00e201c3b4ee$ba1e9b50$0b1fc444 at dell450>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
>It costs even less to make the harness if you already have most of the
>parts.
>
>Relays can be had for free. Just pick them up at the junkyard whenever you
>pay them a visit. Junkyards do not charge you for relays. Audis and VW's
>have lots of relays in them. Through some magic process, I always find
>several relays in my pockets after every visit to the local junkyard.
>
>What? You are worried about the contacts on junkyard relays? I have not
>found a bad contact yet. Bosch relays have a double set of contacts. One set
>closes just before the second set, and likewise, they open after the second
>set opens. Any arcing is done at the "sacrificial" first set contacts. The
>relay covers come off easy enough so you can visually check the contacts.
>
>Some of us have a crimping kit . . .a ratcheting crimper and a whole bunch
>of crimp connectors. The 14 ga and 12 ga wires can be had at Home Depot. I
>would prefer to have finer stranded wires that have a good heat and solvent
>rating . . . .need to find a source for that yet.
>
>I suppose you can have the whole thing rigged up in less than an hour. I
>takes me much longer than that. I like stress loops, tie wrapped wires, wire
>protectors made from vacuum hose, a neat layout. On the second or third try,
>the time is slashed in half . . . . typical Learning Curve stuff. Now that I
>think about it, if you separate the harness making from the installation . .
>..it does take less than an hour to make the harness. The installation time
>will be the same no matter if you make your own harness or buy it.
>
>I do like those connectors that they use on the ready made harness. The lamp
>connector you can get at most auto parts stores. But where do you find the
>connector that duplicates what is at the lamp itself? Having this connector
>would eliminate cutting into the existing harness.
>
>I noticed the purchased harness had no protection for the relays. My relays
>are protected with a 1 1/2" diameter ABS plastic pipe with end caps . .
>..sealed from the weather.
>
>And last but not least, doing your own work is mentally rewarding . . . .
>the extra cash in your pocket is a bonus . .as long as the wife does not
>find it.
>
>
>SJ
>85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
>85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
>88 Audi 5kq
>90 Audi 100q
>
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 20:17:20 -0500
>> From: "R. Mair" <waves at epix.net>
>> Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
>> To: "Quattro List" <quattro at audifans.com>
>> Message-ID: <01a301c3b484$380e9b70$06945344 at Dell>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>> $55 for a harness!?! Sheesh, for about $15 you can buy a Bosch 30 amp
>relay,
>> with plastic connector, with about 2 feet of wire already clipped into the
>> connector, AND a fuse and holder. One of these will handle either high or
>> low beams. Buy two and do both. You can have the whole thing rigged up in
>> less than an hour and the wire is heavy enough for anything you'll ever
>draw
>> through it.
>>
>> Rolf Mair
>>
>> 2002 Allroad
>> 1995.5 S6 Avant (for sale)
>> 1995 90q Sport
>> 1990 90 20v turbo
>
>
>
>Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:28:37 -0500
>From: David Head <v8q at bellsouth.net>
>Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Message-ID: <3FC61825.10304 at bellsouth.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>One would think the post below to be series of intuitively obvious 
>statements, but they are not...
>Not all of us are retired nuclear electrical engineers. ;-) Or even for 
>that matter marginally competent electricians.
>I have 2 ratcheting crimpers from Home Depot (one for solderless 
>terminals and one for RJ) and - I consider them marginal, at best. They 
>also cost, as I recall, around 40+ bucks apiece. They also only do a 
>competent crimp about 1/2 the time.
>I've got enough relays, wiring, solderless terminals, heat shrink, 
>soldering irons, flux, solder and tools to do just about damn near anything.
>So for those in my camp, slap one together. Chances are it still won't 
>be as nice or reliable as one from suvlights - but it will work. Cross 
>your fingers and hope it doesn't decide to 'not' work at 80 plus in the 
>mountains on a moonless night.
>
>For those not in the group above, by the time you buy the tools and 
>parts needed to properly construct a harness you'll pay 3 to 4 times 
>what a professionally assembled one will cost.
>
>Not to mention what your time is worth. For me, its priceless. At a 
>minimum, 40 bucks an hour.
>
>When the time comes, I'll buy 2 harnesses from suvlights.com since I've 
>got 2 V8s... Plus the one on jackstands for 4 years... (actually 3 
>years, 11 months and 17 days). I'll seal the connections with a dab of 
>silicone to make them splash resistant.
>
>Dave
>EMCM(SW) retired
>once one of 4 people in the Navy certified to crimp 4160V reactor 
>coolant pump cabling.
>Application Engineer
>Cardinal Health - Automation and Information Services
>