Audi 4000 Turbo Conversion (long)

[Jim Green]

> One of my questions in particular to Javad, Nate and
> Jim is how much money
> round figure did you guys spend until this point,
> Money to me is a certain
> liability, I just got married and there are other
> things to consider. I'm
> more worried on long term, rather than short term.


All I can say is if money is an issue in the long
term, then do it right the first time.  I honestly
don't know how much I've spent, I'd rather not think
about it.  When I started this project I decided to
put the money that I would have used each month to buy
a new car into mine.  That was over three years ago,
and I'm finally coming to a point where I can't
realisticly do much more to it.  I've spent more in
the long term by doing it in stages, but it was
important to me because I was learning the whole time.

> 2. which engine is the best setup - out of the box -

Out of the box, well the RS2 of course, 300+ HP

The Good old MC or MC2 motor is the strongest, and
will hold up to tons of abuse.

> 3. most easily tuned

The 20vt's are more forgiving on low octane gas.
People are running 25+ psi on pump gas.  The 10vt seem
to get pretty picky around 15 psi on pump gas when
flowed out really well.

> 4. peak hp tuning possibility in each one.

I think the 20vt's are good for about 100 HP more at
about the same boost settings.  There are guys pushing
them to 500+ HP.  The 10vt, well, Javad will probably
get to 400 crank HP soon.  It also depends on what
engine management you use.  Do you want to buy chips,
of hook up your laptop and do it yourself?

> 5. clutch and flywheel options

Stock 5ktq clutch, the 200's flywheel is lighter, or
you can just have some material removed from whatever
you use.

> 6. if there is anything else that you think might be
> valuable to me

Bottom line is how much power do you want?  You are
going need a header/different manifold, larger fuel
injectors, large IC, large turbo, and exhaust for
either motor if you're going for 300+ HP.

The 20VT has many bolt on RS2 parts that can get you
to 350 hp, but it's expensive.

> in the first stage I did not want to spend more than
> $5,000 in materials and
> tools, not counting my time of course.

I'm installing the 034 EFI direct ignition as we
speak, I feel it will make a huge difference in
tunning, Also DIS is one of the reasons 20vt's make
more power, so I'd hold tight and wait for some
feedback.  The Distributer based system is great, but
it has one weakness, the distributer.  When you're on
the ragged edge with pump gas, 1 or 2 degree's of
slop, and not being able to trim back individual
cylinders limits what you can do.

I like the 10vt, it sounds cool, has cheep parts, and
is easy to work on.

If it were me, go EFI no matter what.  The 034 EFI
stage IIb will get you up and running really fast, and
really well with fuel and ignition control.  Then you
can always send it in for the DIS upgrade when your're
ready.  You can use it on the 10vt, or 20vt.

Then get out the welder, and just start building a
header.  Yes, it's big step, but half, no 3/4 of the
conversion is fitting stuff like oil coolers,
intercoolers, airboxes, and turbo piping.  By making
the header, you can get it all done in one step, and
not hack your car up so much.  You can do a really
good 10vt EFI, DIS conversion for $5000.  If you do
20vt, you have to blow half your budget on just
getting the motor, and you still have to buy the chip,
and all the big stuff for it.

I also feel that once you start dipping into anything
past where Javad and I are heading, you will start
having clutch and tranny issues, so you have to
consilder that as well.

HTH,

=====
Jim Green
'89 90tq 034EFI Stage II
http://www.mswanson.com/~jgreen/car_home.html

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