Automotive Paint Differences

[quattro + 5 or 8 = fun]

Todd



I did a TON of research on paint for my MBZ.  Here are my thoughts from
experience and what I have been told.

First, the Sikkens.  The man that did the bulk of the welding and difficult
prep work on the MBZ uses Sikkens.  According to him, it is a little bit
harder to work with then the Centari if you get runs and drips because it
dries faster.  The benefit to it is that it does dry very fast.  He said he
loves it because he can get cars in and out of the shop quick and not have
to tie up the dust free room for so long.  So, if u have any chance of
getting dust on the paint, go with this one.  Another thing he likes about
it is the fact that it is a very high quality paint for a low end paint.  I
had a former Sikkens rep who now paints with PPG tell me the same thing.

Second, the Centari.  Two friends of mine who paint in their garages use
this exclusively.  These guys are not pros, but they each paint about 4-5
cars a year.  They like it because it is easy to paint with.  I have been
told it is a bit slower drying then the Sikkens, so you can work with it
very easily, EG; to get runs and drips out of it.

Third, PPG DCC.  I don't know much about this one.  The former Sikkens rep
who now paints with PPG likes this one just fine.  Never really commented
good or bad about it.  This is the only paint I have ever painted with
personally.  Why?  Because the store that sells it is close to my house.  I
have no complaints with it.  I can tell you it holds up VERY well.
Kristin's 4000 has bits and pieces painted with it.  6 years later, not
fading.  Even though it has only been waxed no more then 3 or 4 times during
it's life.

Forth, last year, when I was looking for shops to paint my MBZ, I called
MAACO.  They used Marten Senour.  Parts of our van was painted in Marten
Senour two stage.  I am not impressed.  Partially due to the painter though.
That 4000 FWD that I rebuilt and sold was painted in the paint.  It turned
out okay.  Looked real good.  That was a single stage.

Not sure if this helps.  Also, for your reading is a short summary on other
paints written by a painter on the MBZ list I belong to.



HERE IT IS:


Dupont

Dupont is a good product but their Chroma base, if I remember right ,  is no
longer the top of their line.  There were problems with the Chroma base due
to the fact that the base coat is a modified Acrylic Enamel, but the new
stuff is called Chroma Premier and is a very good product.  I am not that
familiar with their system having only used it in a demo.  They have a clear
though that is very fast and would be be good for this type of application.
The other draw back is match.  Dupont is considered a domestic system,
compared to the European systems, and will tend to match domestic cars
better than the European systems, and vice versa.  If it is available though
and  I would have no problem using it on my own cars.  I think I would pick
their fast clear I mention above.

Akso Noble

This line is made up of Sikkens and Lesonal.  Both are very good products I
use everyday in my shop.  The difference in the two is cost.  Akso is in the
process of making Sikkens a product to compete with house of kolor with a
price to match.  Their Autoclyer(Weird spelling) is toe only clear I use in
the Sikkens line, but their other clears are very good also .  Lessonal is
being moved in as a low cost production paint system. For spot jobs their
5.0 clear is very good, but to fast for overall.  I would use 4.0 if the job
is more that 3 panels.  In my opinion this is the best product when cost is
considered.

PPG

They have two complete independent systems, Global(European) and
DBU/DBC(Domestic).  On a Audi I would use Global for match reasons.  Their
800 clear is fast and has good performance,  but 880 while being slower
produces the best finish.  Also 2001 can be used with a accelerator.  The
rep may say it is not recommended, but I think this is because 2001 is the
same product as Globals 884 the only difference being 20% in the reps
pocket.  If I were to do the jog in PPG I would use PPG 2001, with DRX
11(Hardener, it is called diamond coat and I believe the number is right but
check it) .

BASF

Only product I have used is Glasoret.  Was not real impressed in a
production setting, but for a show car I would defiantly consider using it.
They do have a production system though I have never used it.  They have a
good reputation and I am sure it is as good as any of the above systems.

Sherwin Willams

They still use a modified Acrylic Enamel base coat, but last I heard they
had not had any problems for the last four or five years.  Because of the
basecoat I dont believe it is as good as system as the others.  It does have
one saving factor though, ease of use.  This has to be the most forgiving
product I have ever used.  You can try and have problems and still repair it
and produce a good job.  For some one with very little experience it is a
product to consider.

Also equipment is also important in producing a good finish.  I possible use
a HVLP gravity feed spray gun(Sata, Binks, DeVellvis) the difference is
amazing.   The paint store may let you rent one  One thing that beginners
don't know is that base coat is sandable.  If you make a mistake in the
basecoat take a little 600 wet sand, sand it out and apply more basecoat.
Remember you have 24 hours to apply clear from the time the last coat of
base is applied.  Take you time that is one of the big advantages to
basecoat clearcoat systems.


Shane


Bay Area, CA

Audis, MBZs & a black sheep BMW.

BUY ME NOW:  http://www.arias.net/%7Ebcpi/pics/cars/other/BMW/BMW/
PARTING:  1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5

>
> Heya everyone,
> That multicolored 4ktq of mine is ready to go to the paint
> shop.  Its straight, true, has no rust, is primered and sitting
> itn Garage looking a pretty shade of "grey".  I have coated all
> bare metal with either POR-15 or an Epoxy Primer.  Paint from
> the first respray "before I owned it" and most of the original
> paint has been removed.  I basically took the factory paint down
> untill the factory primer started peeking through.  Then the
> entire car is now coverd in K36 primer.  Block Sanded and
> recoated in it today.  Trouble is I'm having trouble deciding on
> a paint to use.  HEre are my options.  All paints are Single
> stage paints which is chosen for easy of painting, cost, ease of
> repairs in future.  And becasue modern Single Stage paints have
> become Very Durable and long lasting as well as nice looking.
>
> U-Tech 200 "Affordable line from Sikkens"
> Dupont Centari
> PPG DCC
>
> 1) Current favored option but I'm questioning the quality of
> paint.  "SHOWCASE Auto Rebuild" in Kirkland will shoot the car
> for $650.  That includes Sealer Coat and Paint Cost.  I have
> done most of the Taping.  Paint used is U-Tech 200.
>
> 2) Take car to independent shop and rent a booth for $100 and
> paint it myself in which case I"d probably use PPG DCC but
> possibley Centari.  "I dot know how the U-Tech compares to the
> other two.
>
> 3) Have that shop paint it for me.  They will only use their
> paint and they use Sherwin Williams I think which is what MAACO
> uses.  But I cold specify a Double Stage with Clearcoat for the
> same price as the Single stage at "Showcase".
>
> 4) Pay a guy locally that is a painter at a shop but also works
> in his Garage.  He'll do any of my pains "Centari or DCC" which
> will cost me about $300 in paint and $300 in Labor.
>
> Comments, Ideas, ESP comments regarding differences between the
> three paints?  HOW DOES U-Tech 200 compare to these other
> paints?  IF its inferior then I'd rather take anothe route.  But
> if its comparable then goign to showcase ist he easiest for me.
> SO MANY CHOICES>  Ugh!
> Thanks
> Todd  (Anxious to get the car back)