Tie Rod Replacement

[SJ]

What makes you think that you need tie rods? Because the monkey lad said so?
You better have a look at them first.
Have someone turn the steering wheel left and right while you put your hand
on the tie rod end and feel/look for movement/looseness.
Jack up car, take off front wheels, and have another good look. Have someone
turn the steering wheel left and right while you look at the tie rod ends
for sloppy fit.
Are the grease boots cracked/split?

A common problem with tie rod ends is that they are frozen and cannot be
adjusted. Even the monkey lads doing the alignment cannot break the frozen
nuts.
The fix for that is:
1. Soak the tie rod nuts and threads with Max Blaster or Kroil penetrant for
two days or so.
2. take off the wheels and use 2 Big plumbing wrenches to break the nuts. I
used a Rigid 18" and 14" plumbing wrench.
Dont even think of using open end wrenches . . .they will just round the
nuts.
Hold the steering arm or tie rod end with the 18 incher, apply the 14 incher
to the nut. Arrange the tools so that you just need to squeeze one tool
against the other and break the nut.
3. Back off the nuts. Use a brass drift to knock back the clamping collars.
Apply more kroil penetrant.
4. Use the plumbing wrench to start turning the tie rod.
5. Remove tie rod assembly from car, disassemble it, wire brush it to clean
out all the threads.
6. Apply anti-seize compound to all the threads and the insides.
7. Reassemble tie rods.

Oh yes, to remove the tie rod from the wheel steering arm, remove the nut. I
used a brass hammer to whack the bottom of the tie rod ball joint. The brass
wont damage the threads.
But you can use a ball joint popper tool. I also use a gear puller that
happens to fit.

I just did tie rods on the 90 100Q. 160,000 miles and they are fine.
I used a micrometer to measure the nut to nut distance on the tie rod so I
could get it back close to what it was before removal.

For a quick toe alignment, you can align the front wheels to the rear wheels
using strings.

1. Put two linoleum tiles under each front wheel. Grease the tile surfaces
to provide a slip plate.
2. Run a string (fishing line preferred) touching the edge of the tires at
the back and extending past the front wheels.
- I attach the fishing line to some rear suspension part and wrap the line
around the rear tire.
- I attach a rubber band to the other end of the line and attach that to a
jack stand.
3. Adjust the line up and down so it crosses the axle of each wheel.
4. Move the jack stand till the fishing line just kisses the front and back
edges of the rear tire.
5. Check the front tire. A gap between the string and tire indicates toe in
or out.Adjust the tie rods till the front and back of front tire just kisses
the fishing line.

This will get you pretty close to the factory spec. Good enough to get you
to the alignment shop. Ask for a before and after alignment printout to see
what was done.
I was off on the toe on one wheel by 1/16".

Some interesting DIY tools and procedures for alignment . .
http://www.quadesl.com/miata_alignment.shtml


SJ
85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
88 Audi 5kq
90 Audi 100q


> Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 16:27:38 -0400
> From: "Bhatti, Mohammed" <Mohammed.Bhatti at si-intl.com>
> Subject: Tie Rod Replacement
>
> Ok folks,
>
> Looks  like it's time for me to replace the tie rods on my 97 A4 18tqa.
I've just been quoted $800 from a local mechanic after I dropped it off for
a alignment check.  Went ahead and ordered both tie rods for $90 from
germanautoparts.com.
>
> Anyway, is this something that can be done over a weekend if I work slowly
and steadily?  What tools would I need?  Am I in for a long, hot, tiring
weekend with an achy back at the end of it?
>
> Any info, helpful hints and experiences greatly appreciated.
>
> --
> mohammed
> 97 A4 1.8tqa