86 5ktq in rally cross!

[Bob]

Im not sure Id like the diffs locking and unlocking without my control. 
Mostly because it would make the car too unpredictable, secondly if you 
have a wheel spinning and you engage the diffs, youre possibly going to 
replace some expensive parts.

On my 4000q it also wanted to go straight, but once I did a custom 
alignment, giving the front more negative camber, it made it a dream. I 
can now throttle steer with both diff locked which is exactly what I was 
after.

My 2 cents.
Bob


Dan Cordon wrote:

>> On snow and ice, you SHOULD be able to get the car to rotate, so I'd 
>> keep
>> the diffs locked.
>
>
> Actually, I've done quite a bit of *ice auto crossing* this winter 
> during each of the big snow dumps we've had here. There's a particular 
> parking lot that's great for oval racing (alone, that is). I've been 
> trying to learn more how the car responds with each of the diffs 
> locked. I'd run about 20 laps open, 20 with center locked, and 20 with 
> both locked, then repeat in the opposite direction.
>
> That said, with both diffs locked the car really wants to go straight. 
> Getting the initial turn in is difficult at best. However, once the 
> turn is initiated, I felt like having both diffs locked made it easier 
> to control the drift.
>
> Even having just the center locked made the initial turn in slightly 
> harder, but nothing compared to having the rear locked.
>
> I would consider putting a switch on the throttle if possible. 
> Something where any more than ~50-70% throttle would engage the vacuum 
> locks. When you go below that, it would disengage. This way when 
> you're giving it throttle as you exit the corner you'd get the locked 
> diff traction, but off the throttle entering a corner you'd be fully 
> open.
>
> Not having thought much about this, I'm not sure on the details of 
> where you'd want to mount such a switch.
>
> FYI, this was in my 87 5k that I was playing around with. Good luck 
> with the races!
>