Clutch slave replacement
Denis
sparkplugvw at hotmail.com
Thu Feb 12 11:25:34 EST 2004
I remove the tranny, i lovee it ;-) 016.
Denis Julien
ps after years of dust , that fffff pin and that ff cylinder is almost weld
there. You have to take all your cells to work on it . Best way i foound to
get there is by the engine bay. Release suspension member screws , jack the
front lett the tranny and engine fall a little then get more acces to the
cylinder.For the next time i ll machine a bolts like pin and tap treads on
the tranny block.
----- Original Message -----
From: Kurt Deschler <desch at alum.wpi.edu>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: Clutch slave replacement
> On my 5k, even the air chisel was futile in removing the drift pin. I had
> to use a drift on a long length of socket extension through the wheel well
> and hit that pretty hard with a hammer.
> Kurt
> '87 5kcstq
>
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 09:46:14 -0500
> > From: "Ben Swann" <benswann at comcast.net>
> > Subject: Clutch slave replacement [was Re: Thinking about getting a
> > Mechanicaly-challened '88 90Q]
> > To: <tyson at up-times.com>
> > Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> > Message-ID: <0ff101c3f176$f71f3b80$6701a8c0 at SWANSONG>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Assuming the specifics of clutch slave location are the same as on the
> > older transmissions of the 4kq's and coupes, it is doable in situ
> > although somewhat of a PITA.
> >
> > I have found one tool that takes the job out of the realm of impossible
> > is a compact air chisel. There is not really any room to swing a hammer
> > to get the retaining pin out. Use an air chisel and the proper punch or
> > drift fitting to get the pin started out and follow through with a bolt
> > or pin that is just small enough to fit inside the hole without getting
> > stuck, but large enough to mate with the hollow pin.
> >
> > After futile attempt of removal with a hammer for hours, I was able to
> > have the pin out in minutes with the proper setup - actually once you
> > have the right combination, it is out like "BRAAAP' in seconds. Just
> > break your arm in a few places to position the air chisel and punch -
> > then let the air do the rest.
> >
> > I recommend trying a thorough bleeding of master and slave first, as
> > this may fix the problem and at least will get you familiar with what
> > needs to be done if replacement is required.
> >
> > Ben
> >
> > [> The slave cylinder is INSIDE the clutch bell housing on this car?!
> >
> > Did I really put it that way? Must have been half asleep... it is on
> > the top of the bell housing, and a bear to remove because of limited
> > access, but it can be done.
> >
> > > I was talking to a local member here in Seattle that works for a used
> > > Audi parts shop and he was telling me about engine/tranny removal on
> > > these cars... From what this guy tells me, the tranny and motor must
> > > come out together and furthermore must come out the BOTTOM! I cant
> > > even phantom how I am going to get the car high enough (and stable so
> > > it doesn't fall on me) to do that.
> >
> > As bad as the job can be, it can also go very quickly.]
>
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