Clutch slave replacement
Livolsi, Stephane
Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com
Thu Feb 12 12:12:24 EST 2004
When I replaced my clutch and clutch slave cylinder, I didn't replace
the roll pin. Instead I put in a bolt with 2 nuts on the other side.
This will make it easier to remove next time, although I seriously doubt
that I will wear out another clutch and slave.
Stephane
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Denis [mailto:sparkplugvw at hotmail.com]
> Sent: February 12, 2004 8:28 AM
> To: quattro list
> Subject: Re: Clutch slave replacement
>
>
> I remove the tranny, i lovee it ;-) 016.
>
> Denis Julien
>
> ps after years of dust , that fffff pin and that ff cylinder
> is almost weld there. You have to take all your cells to work
> on it . Best way i foound to get there is by the engine bay.
> Release suspension member screws , jack the front lett the
> tranny and engine fall a little then get more acces to the
> cylinder.For the next time i ll machine a bolts like pin and
> tap treads on the tranny block.
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kurt Deschler <desch at alum.wpi.edu>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 10:56 AM
> Subject: Re: Clutch slave replacement
>
>
> > On my 5k, even the air chisel was futile in removing the
> drift pin. I
> > had to use a drift on a long length of socket extension through the
> > wheel well and hit that pretty hard with a hammer. Kurt
> > '87 5kcstq
> >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 09:46:14 -0500
> > > From: "Ben Swann" <benswann at comcast.net>
> > > Subject: Clutch slave replacement [was Re: Thinking about
> getting a
> > > Mechanicaly-challened '88 90Q]
> > > To: <tyson at up-times.com>
> > > Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> > > Message-ID: <0ff101c3f176$f71f3b80$6701a8c0 at SWANSONG>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > Assuming the specifics of clutch slave location are the
> same as on
> > > the older transmissions of the 4kq's and coupes, it is doable in
> > > situ although somewhat of a PITA.
> > >
> > > I have found one tool that takes the job out of the realm of
> > > impossible is a compact air chisel. There is not really
> any room to
> > > swing a hammer to get the retaining pin out. Use an air
> chisel and
> > > the proper punch or drift fitting to get the pin started out and
> > > follow through with a bolt or pin that is just small
> enough to fit
> > > inside the hole without getting stuck, but large enough
> to mate with
> > > the hollow pin.
> > >
> > > After futile attempt of removal with a hammer for hours,
> I was able
> > > to have the pin out in minutes with the proper setup -
> actually once
> > > you have the right combination, it is out like "BRAAAP'
> in seconds.
> > > Just break your arm in a few places to position the air
> chisel and
> > > punch - then let the air do the rest.
> > >
> > > I recommend trying a thorough bleeding of master and
> slave first, as
> > > this may fix the problem and at least will get you familiar with
> > > what needs to be done if replacement is required.
> > >
> > > Ben
> > >
> > > [> The slave cylinder is INSIDE the clutch bell housing on this
> > > car?!
> > >
> > > Did I really put it that way? Must have been half
> asleep... it is
> > > on the top of the bell housing, and a bear to remove because of
> > > limited access, but it can be done.
> > >
> > > > I was talking to a local member here in Seattle that
> works for a
> > > > used Audi parts shop and he was telling me about engine/tranny
> > > > removal on these cars... From what this guy tells me,
> the tranny
> > > > and motor must come out together and furthermore must
> come out the
> > > > BOTTOM! I cant even phantom how I am going to get the car high
> > > > enough (and stable so it doesn't fall on me) to do that.
> > >
> > > As bad as the job can be, it can also go very quickly.]
> >
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>
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