Clutch slave replacement

[Livolsi, Stephane]

When I replaced my clutch and clutch slave cylinder, I didn't replace
the roll pin.  Instead I put in a bolt with 2 nuts on the other side.
This will make it easier to remove next time, although I seriously doubt
that I will wear out another clutch and slave.

Stephane

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Denis [mailto:sparkplugvw at hotmail.com] 
> Sent: February 12, 2004 8:28 AM
> To: quattro list
> Subject: Re: Clutch slave replacement
> 
> 
> I remove the tranny, i lovee it ;-) 016.
> 
> Denis Julien
> 
> ps after years of dust , that fffff pin and that ff cylinder 
> is almost weld there. You have to take all your cells to work 
> on it . Best way i foound to get there is by the engine bay. 
> Release suspension member screws , jack the front lett the 
> tranny and engine fall a little then get more acces to the 
> cylinder.For the next time i ll machine a bolts like pin and 
> tap treads on the tranny block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kurt Deschler <desch at alum.wpi.edu>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 10:56 AM
> Subject: Re: Clutch slave replacement
> 
> 
> > On my 5k, even the air chisel was futile in removing the 
> drift pin. I 
> > had to use a drift on a long length of socket extension through the 
> > wheel well and hit that pretty hard with a hammer. Kurt
> > '87 5kcstq
> >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 09:46:14 -0500
> > > From: "Ben Swann" <benswann at comcast.net>
> > > Subject: Clutch slave replacement [was Re: Thinking about 
> getting a 
> > > Mechanicaly-challened '88 90Q]
> > > To: <tyson at up-times.com>
> > > Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> > > Message-ID: <0ff101c3f176$f71f3b80$6701a8c0 at SWANSONG>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > Assuming the specifics of clutch slave location are the 
> same as on 
> > > the older transmissions of the 4kq's and coupes, it is doable in 
> > > situ although somewhat of a PITA.
> > >
> > > I have found one tool that takes the job out of the realm of 
> > > impossible is a compact air chisel.  There is not really 
> any room to 
> > > swing a hammer to get the retaining pin out.  Use an air 
> chisel and 
> > > the proper punch or drift fitting to get the pin started out and 
> > > follow through with a bolt or pin that is just small 
> enough to fit 
> > > inside the hole without getting stuck, but large enough 
> to mate with 
> > > the hollow pin.
> > >
> > > After futile attempt of removal with a hammer for hours, 
> I was able 
> > > to have the pin out in minutes with the proper setup - 
> actually once 
> > > you have the right combination, it is out like "BRAAAP' 
> in seconds.  
> > > Just break your arm in a few places to position the air 
> chisel and 
> > > punch - then let the air do the rest.
> > >
> > > I recommend trying a thorough bleeding of master and 
> slave first, as 
> > > this may fix the problem and at least will get you familiar with 
> > > what needs to be done if replacement is required.
> > >
> > > Ben
> > >
> > > [> The slave cylinder is INSIDE the clutch bell housing on this 
> > > car?!
> > >
> > > Did I really put it that way?  Must have been half 
> asleep... it is 
> > > on the top of the bell housing, and a bear to remove because of 
> > > limited access, but it can be done.
> > >
> > > > I was talking to a local member here in Seattle that 
> works for a 
> > > > used Audi parts shop and he was telling me about engine/tranny 
> > > > removal on these cars... From what this guy tells me, 
> the tranny 
> > > > and motor must come out together and furthermore must 
> come out the 
> > > > BOTTOM! I cant even phantom how I am going to get the car high 
> > > > enough (and stable so it doesn't fall on me) to do that.
> > >
> > > As bad as the job can be, it can also go very quickly.]
> >
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