How to repair a 5k headlight high/low switch.

[Kurt Deschler]

Last night I had my high/low switch break causing it not to stay in the
low position. I was able to fix it. While its fresh in my head, I thought
I would summarize this for the next unfortunate victim. It should be a 1-2
hr job with these instructions.

How to repair a 5k headlight high/low switch.

Tools needed:
Sharp needle nose pliers
Small drifts
Scratch awl
Soldering iron, flux, and solder
Plastic welder epoxy. Gel super glue might work as well.

Materials:
1 vegatable can top
2 pen caps.

1) Remove the switch assembly from the trim pieces. Let the plastic get to
   room temp to avoid cracking.

3) Remove the 3 brass rivets on the directional stalk side. If you can
   squish the peened end down to the rivet diameter with sharp pliers
   then they can be re-used. The remaining rivets will keep the switches
   under the metal cover in place.

4) Remove the retainer for the cruise control wiring.

5) Spread the end where the rivets were removed about 8mm on both sides
   and prop open with the pen caps. This requires force. Do not spread
   the side excessively as it is placing a lot of stress on the plastic.

6) Fish the high/low/directional stalk out of the switch assy. You can get
   the directional cancel actuator off by pulling the stalk toward the
   metal side. Do not use force. If you are gentle, all the springs will
   stay in place.

7) Push out the roll pin that the high/low pivots on with a drift or nail.
   When you remove the drift, the latching roller and spring will be
   released. Now you see where the plastic roller housing has cracked.

8) Cut the can top to 8mm x 80mm. Bend a rectangular box that fits tightly
   around the roller housing using needle nose pliers. The box needs to fit
   perfectly around since there is very little clearance where the roller
   housing sits. If it is any wider than 8mm, it will short out the high/low
   beam circuit and kill your battery. The ends of the box should overlap on
   the entire top surface. Note: I put the seem on the top, but the
   high/low switch may operate better if it is on the bottom. The seam
   needs to be as thin as possible. I tinned both sides first, then
   removed all excess solder, re-fitted as close as possible, and wicked
   solder into the seam.

9) Test fit the metal box over the roller housing and in the channel
   where the roller housing sits.

10) Fill the cracks with the plastic welder and coat the outide of the
    roller housing

11) Press the metal box over the roller housing. It should fit tight.
    Remove excess glue.

12) Grease the roller and metal box and re-assemble the stalk. Check that
    the high/low operation is smooth and firm.

13) Re-install the stalk. First, hold down the high/low switch contacts
    and get the stalk in place. Then work the directional cancel activator
    into place. Again, do not use force.

14) Remove the pen caps and close the switch assembly. Make sure all
    switches and the directional cancel work. Test on the car.

15) Re-install the rivets. Use the scratch awl to expand the tops of the
    rivets.


	Kurt
	'87 5kcstq
	'88 vw gti 16v