Rear Door window switches

[Kneale Brownson]

The switch is soldered to two pigtails, a two-pin one and a three-pin one,
that connect to connectors in the wiring, Ameer.  So the switch itself
doesn't unplug, the little pigtails do.   I got the window closed by
following Chris's suggestion of reversing the two-pin connection and
operating the switch in the console that opened the window originally.  I
don't really need rear door switch operation as long as the console
switches work, so I'll clean up/replace the console switch.

At 01:22 AM 7/15/2004 -0400, Ameer Antar wrote:
>Are the wires, s'posed to be soldered to the switch? Doesn't sound right... 
>how would you change switches? If the switch connectors are the flat 
>blade-type, you're in luck. The earlier 5k's had round connectors, though. 
>The flat blades are the same as those crimp-on blade terminals, aka 
>quick-disconnects. In that case, I'd draw a diagram of the wiring and 
>switch, cut the switch out, desolder the switch blades, and crimp-on some 
>female flat blade terminals on the wiring harness. I'm not sure, but the 
>round type may connect to a bullet shaped connector. W/ the switch out you 
>can test it using a meter, open it up (jewler's screwdrivers come in handy) 
>and clean the gunk out if necessary. Also the wires in the door jamb may be 
>frayed or broken. Of course, the motor may have fried up, so you may have to 
>test that too. If you can get 12v to the motor's connector, you can find out 
>if the motor is any good. (You just swap the + and - for up/down). I'd also 
>check the driver's switch too if you're still stuck. The child safety lock 
>is off, right? good luck.