How to replace Front Wheel Bearings?

[Pat Korach]

Jim

You may have missed one thing.  Loosen the outer nuts and remove the inner
nut from the upper bearing plate.  This lets the strut assembly swing out
easier.

Pat Korach
Kirkland, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Dupree" <jdupree914 at sbcglobal.net>
To: "SJ" <syljay at optonline.net>; <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: How to replace Front Wheel Bearings?


> I never did a late 100 but did many 5k.
> Remove wheel, Brake caliper, Rotor and dust shield.
> You can leave the brake line attached to the caliper but you HAVE to hang
the caliper with wire (coat hanger works) so there is NO tension on the
brake line or hose.
> Remove large nut (or bolt) from outer CV joint where it goes thru the hub
> Remove pinch bolt for ball joint
> (This next part was the tricky part for me, a helper is a really good
idea)
> Using 6 foot long pipe to pull down on control arm and disconnect ball
joint from bottom  of strut. Pipe goes in front of the strut base, over the
sway bar/track bar, and under the sub frame. Pull down on the end of the
pipe to pry the control arm down. I floor jack handle works but is a little
short for my taste.
> While still holding down on the control arm with the pipe pull the strut
base out away from the control arm.
> Careful of the ball joint boot, they tear easily. (the boots are available
separately)
> Hopefully the CV joint will pull out of the hub, you may need to drive it
out or push it out with puller.
> Once you have pulled the base of the strut out far enough you can let the
control arm up slowly until the tension is released.
> I then take a 6 inch long 4x4 and slide it up between the strut and the
inner fender to hold the strut out away from the control arm.
> Now you have access to the hub and wheel bearing to make use of your tool.
> Pull the hub out (The tool I had could be used to pull the hub out of the
bearing.)
> Inner bearing race usually stays on the hub and will have to be
pressed/driven/pulled off the hub.
> Early struts had a circlip on each side of the bearing and you could
remove both of them and press the bearing out which ever way was easier to
you. Latter struts have only and inner circlip and the bearing has to be
pressed out toward the inside  and back in from the inside.
> Remove the circlip or clips on the inside and or out side of the wheel
bearing.
> Press the bearing out (use your tool according to it's instructions) and
press the new bearing in. If this is an early strut with both clip be sure
to install a clip to press the bearing up to as a stop.
> Reinstall the last circlip
> Press the hub back into the bearing (make sure the clips are in place
before you press in the hub!!!!)
> Reassemble the suspension.
>
> Good luck
> Jim
>
>
> SJ <syljay at optonline.net> wrote:
> Patient is 90 100Q, manual, NF engine
>
> I have a "whirr, whirr, whirr" sound coming from the front end.
> The sound is loudest at 45 mph.
> The sound is loudest when turning left, quieter when turning right (as in
> changing lanes on highway).
>
> I suspect the starboard(right) side front bearing is kaput.
>
> I have that special tool that allows removing and installing bearings on
the
> car.
>
> What is the procedure for bearing replacement if one has the special tool?
> The manual tells you how to do it if you only have bench mounted tools
like
> a press, etc.
>
> Does the front drive axle have to be completely removed?
> Remove brake caliper and rotor.
> Remove the hub using a puller.
>
> At this point, can the bearing be got at without further disassembly of
the
> suspension?
>
>
> SJ
> 85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
> 85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
> 88 Audi 5kq
> 90 Audi 100q
>
>
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