How to replace Front Wheel Bearings?

[Jim Dupree]

Pat,
A very good suggestion.
I never bothered with them, I don't think I ever thought about them. .
After you've done it a few times it is easy to just pull out on the strut
and stuff the 4x4 in there and get on with it. Working to make your living
in a shop (I did for17 yrs) even a few extra minutes cost you money. When
you look at the time saved or spent on a single instance it seems very
insignificant. Short cuts that don't affect the repair quality often make
the repair slightly or significantly harder to do but they can save a few
minutes on a short job to hours on a major job. Over the days and weeks it
adds up to a significant amount of time and money.
Now when I am working on my car I usually take the longer but easier method.
It cost me more of my time but less wear and tear on my aging body.
Jim
1993 S4 --> picking it up next week :)
1984 4kq --> For Sale
1985 4kq --> For Sale
1985 5kt


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Pat Korach" <tm2 at zipcon.net>
To: "James Dupree" <jdupree914 at sbcglobal.net>; "SJ" <syljay at optonline.net>;
<quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: How to replace Front Wheel Bearings?


> Jim
>
> You may have missed one thing.  Loosen the outer nuts and remove the inner
> nut from the upper bearing plate.  This lets the strut assembly swing out
> easier.
>
> Pat Korach
> Kirkland, WA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Dupree" <jdupree914 at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "SJ" <syljay at optonline.net>; <quattro at audifans.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2004 5:08 PM
> Subject: Re: How to replace Front Wheel Bearings?
>
>
> > I never did a late 100 but did many 5k.
> > Remove wheel, Brake caliper, Rotor and dust shield.
> > You can leave the brake line attached to the caliper but you HAVE to
hang
> the caliper with wire (coat hanger works) so there is NO tension on the
> brake line or hose.
> > Remove large nut (or bolt) from outer CV joint where it goes thru the
hub
> > Remove pinch bolt for ball joint
> > (This next part was the tricky part for me, a helper is a really good
> idea)
> > Using 6 foot long pipe to pull down on control arm and disconnect ball
> joint from bottom  of strut. Pipe goes in front of the strut base, over
the
> sway bar/track bar, and under the sub frame. Pull down on the end of the
> pipe to pry the control arm down. I floor jack handle works but is a
little
> short for my taste.
> > While still holding down on the control arm with the pipe pull the strut
> base out away from the control arm.
> > Careful of the ball joint boot, they tear easily. (the boots are
available
> separately)
> > Hopefully the CV joint will pull out of the hub, you may need to drive
it
> out or push it out with puller.
> > Once you have pulled the base of the strut out far enough you can let
the
> control arm up slowly until the tension is released.
> > I then take a 6 inch long 4x4 and slide it up between the strut and the
> inner fender to hold the strut out away from the control arm.
> > Now you have access to the hub and wheel bearing to make use of your
tool.
> > Pull the hub out (The tool I had could be used to pull the hub out of
the
> bearing.)
> > Inner bearing race usually stays on the hub and will have to be
> pressed/driven/pulled off the hub.
> > Early struts had a circlip on each side of the bearing and you could
> remove both of them and press the bearing out which ever way was easier to
> you. Latter struts have only and inner circlip and the bearing has to be
> pressed out toward the inside  and back in from the inside.
> > Remove the circlip or clips on the inside and or out side of the wheel
> bearing.
> > Press the bearing out (use your tool according to it's instructions) and
> press the new bearing in. If this is an early strut with both clip be sure
> to install a clip to press the bearing up to as a stop.
> > Reinstall the last circlip
> > Press the hub back into the bearing (make sure the clips are in place
> before you press in the hub!!!!)
> > Reassemble the suspension.
> >
> > Good luck
> > Jim
> >
> >
> > SJ <syljay at optonline.net> wrote:
> > Patient is 90 100Q, manual, NF engine
> >
> > I have a "whirr, whirr, whirr" sound coming from the front end.
> > The sound is loudest at 45 mph.
> > The sound is loudest when turning left, quieter when turning right (as
in
> > changing lanes on highway).
> >
> > I suspect the starboard(right) side front bearing is kaput.
> >
> > I have that special tool that allows removing and installing bearings on
> the
> > car.
> >
> > What is the procedure for bearing replacement if one has the special
tool?
> > The manual tells you how to do it if you only have bench mounted tools
> like
> > a press, etc.
> >
> > Does the front drive axle have to be completely removed?
> > Remove brake caliper and rotor.
> > Remove the hub using a puller.
> >
> > At this point, can the bearing be got at without further disassembly of
> the
> > suspension?
> >
> >
> > SJ
> > 85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
> > 85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
> > 88 Audi 5kq
> > 90 Audi 100q
> >
> >
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> >
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>
>