replacing steering rack

[David Conner]

Robert asks...
"1988csqt steering rack being replaced ...any suggestions about how to
get new one in same position as old one ?"


Robert,
I don't know what your specific questions are, but I'll take a stab at
helping.  One useful post is copied below.  Be sure to have the Bentley
manual on hand and follow closely.
I'll add a couple of tips...

Helpful tip #1 - test fit the removeable steering column clamp to the new
rack >before< installing the rack.  You want to be sure re: how they fit
together and that they will slide together easily.  Once the rack is in
place, if they don't slide together easily you will have to remove the rack
to figure out why.  The last rack I replaced had some of the splines beat
up and it caused a lot of trouble.

Helpful tip #2 - There will likely be some side-to-side play in the
mounting points at either end of the rack.  Try to balance this out because
it has an effect on the front wheels alignment. 

Helpful Tip #3 - In case you haven't figured it out already ... you will be
removing/replacing the rack through the right side wheel well.

Helpful Tip #4 - On thing a lot of people struggle with is trying to get
the banjo bolts started ... the ones which attach the hoses to the rack.
If you have the earleir style using crush washers, it might help to use a
rubber band to hold the crush washers in place while starting the bolt. 

Helpful Tip #5 - Clean the reservoir and screen, and flush all old dirty
fluid from entire system.  Dirty fluid can lead to premature failure.

Helpful tip #6 - Bleed air from system when finished or else you will
probably destroy something expensive.

Helpful Tip #7 - As always, check to see advice Scott Mockry has to offer
at http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/susp.html

I think Bentley says to replace banjo bolts, but I don't know why.  Some
banjo bolts have a little screen which could be plugged with crud.  I would
examine any screens and try to be sure they are clean before reassembly.  I
would always replace crush washers.  From 1989 onward O-rings are used...
I'm not sure what you have on the '88.  I've never replaced the O-rings and
never seen them leak upon re-use.  YMMV.
- -
Dave C.

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From: Jason Douglas (jdouglas at mitre.org) <m17108 at mwunix.mitre.org>
Subject: steering rack lessons learned
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 08:34:40 -0400
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I replaced the steering rack on my 86 5000S about a month ago.  Here are
the main lessons learned.

1. Preparations  You will need a little more than a liter of hydraulic fluid
(have at least 2 on hand).  You will need an assortment of wrenches including
an open end 19 mm.  You will also need an assistant for about 10 minutes at
the
very end to finish up completely.  The car can be driven without this help. Of
course you also need 4 of those compression washers.  Bentley specifies
replacement of the tie-rod lock plate.  It seems nobody does this and the part
is a special order item at the dealerships.  You don't need one.

2. Time.  Book time is 6.5 hours, it took me about 8 (breaks not included.
Its
not a hard job, except for loosening the lines on the rack and that takes time
and muscle, not brains.

3. Short cuts.  Bentley is wrong and Haynes is right (amazing!).  You don't
need
to remove the right tie rod end.  The rack will come out if the car is
jacked up
(after everything is disconnected).

4. Undocumented part of procedure.  You will have to remove parcel tray and
heater vent on driver side to connect steering column to new rack.  The column
is spring loaded.  If you just hook it up, the column will be noisy.  To fix,
get assistant to push column in (as far as it will go, then back up 3mm) and
hold in place while you tighten clamp holding column to rack.  BTW, connection
between rack and column is inside passenger compartment (at firewall).  You
may also need to remove and center steering wheel.

5. Stupid tip.  If you want to keep garage/driveway clean, oil will drip from
rack connections at 3 points.  Have those coffee cans ready!

Otherwise, its exactly Bentley and Haynes describe.

BTW, a good mech told me that failing racks usually seem to get better and
worse several times before failing.  The key, it seems, is temperature.  They
leak more when its cold, and may fail outright (i.e., gush) in severe cold.
Moral -- winter approaches, plan your work now.



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