Suspension Bits

David Conner conner at cfm.ohio-state.edu
Fri Oct 22 11:56:21 EDT 2004


Tom,
Probably the best single source of helpful info is Scott Mockry's website
at...
http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/susp.html

In addition to the parts you've mentioned, at a minimum, I would replace
the strut boots and top mounts.  Scott mentions other optional added things
you might do while you are in there.  Audi/Bentley says to replace the
bolts, etc.  At the very least I would consider replacing the ball joint
bolts with new OEM ... especially if they are original.  In addition to the
Audi Dealer I'm sure there are aftermarket suppliers who would supply the
hardware, presumably at a lower cost.

Re: The four long bolts that hold the subframe to the body .... beware that
there will probably be some waxy goo on the threads and also on the threads
of the captive nuts inside the body of the car.  I would try to clean all
this off the threads before bolting things back together because it
increases the risk of cross threading and it's a real PITA if you strip the
threads..  Brake cleaner and an old toothbrush seems to work well.    There
is probably some side-to-side play in the re-attachment points of the
subframe... try to get it centered because it affects the alignment,
particularly the camber. 

One thing lots of folks struggle with is re-installing the sway bar ... it
can be a mighty struggle.  The last couple of times I did this I used a
come-along to squeeze the ends together in order to insert them into the
control arms.  This was first suggested to me by Phil Payne.  I was
skeptical at first but after trying it I'm sold on the approach.  In case
you don't know what this is, you can see one at
http://www.hooverfence.com/tools/come-a-long.htm  I tied a loop of rope to
each end of the sway bar which allowed me to hook the come along onto it
and ratchet it down to where it would fit into the control arms..   

Upon reassembly, pay attention to the things which >must< be tightened with
the weight of the car on the suspension.  If you fail to do this properly
all your effort will be for naught.

The last time I bought new control arms they began to rust within the first
year.  The new ones were black but it was >not< the same black paint that
held up for 15 years on the originals.  I think they used shoe polish
instead.  I would paint the new control arms.   While you have things apart
you may want to take the opportunity to repaint other things, especially
where there's any serious rust on the suspension components.  A quart of
black POR-15 would be my recommendation. http://www.por15.com/ 

Have fun!
- -
Dave C.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
You wrote...
I'm replacing most of the front suspension on my 200q with 215k miles.  I do 
a lot a highway miles, so OEM replacement struts / shocks are fine by me.

The question is, how much should I be replacing?  I'll tackle the front 
suspension first, then the rear.

Here's what I have accumulated so far:

Replacement lower control arms with sway bar bushings.
Tie rod ends.
Boge gas struts 
strut bearings
subframe bushings

What else do I need?  Bump Stops?  Strut Mounts?

Any write-ups on this process?

I will do the rear suspension soon thereafter.  I already have the upper 
control arms.  What do I need to complete the job.

Thanks,


Tom Werner
Charleston, SC





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