80q coolant flush/refill procedure

[Ado Sigal]

>
>
>So I decided to flush and fill the coolant tonight on the ole 80q. I
>drained/flushed it without incident, and then here's where I went
>wrong. The bentley and the Audi coolant bottle called for a 50/50 mix,
>and bentley said the cooling system's capacity for that was 3.5L of
>
>Curses,
>
>Megan
> 
>
The procedure you're having trouble with is somewhat particular, and 
I'll describe it briefly:

- Stop the engine and heater on full, where is going to stay throughout 
the procedure.
- Gloves on because the antifreeze is toxic. (bad news for kidney function)
- Engine cool, loosen the expansion tank cap, but don't undo it 
completely, or the liquid is going to gush out to quickly; when you sure 
where is going into, the cap can be taken off.
- Top rad cover of to have access to the rad and hoses.
- Undue the most bottom pipe on the radiator (usually on fan side), and 
let the liquid out.
- Take the thermostat housing and the thermostat out to let the rest of 
the liquid out of the block and h/matrix.. (if the thermostat isn't 
fresh already, change it, otherwise only gasket ring)
- Mount the thermostat in marked position, tighten the t/housing, and 
the radiator hose.
- Fill the antifreeze first, and continue with distilled water (always) 
until the overflow tank is full.
- Air bleeding procedure starts now; with palm of your hand close the 
exp/tank, while repeatedly squeezing the top rad hose with the other 
hand. Release the hand, fill the exp/tank, and continue squeezing the 
pipe and applying hand on the exp/tank. This method is used to pump the 
air out of the system and through the head, since the thermostat is 
closed. Continue pumping until the small overflow pipe starts returning 
liquid, and change the procedure.
- Screw the cap on , undo the bleeding screw if there is one on the rad, 
if not, use the clamp or pliers on the small hose to fill the radiator 
fully while playing one way valve so to speak. Squeeze the top hose 
again and keep it squashed while closing the b/screw or clamping the 
small o/hose, then release the hand to let he liquid be sucked into the 
rad;  pump it again few times than squeeze again, and undo the bleeding 
screw or the pipe clamp again, to let the air out. Repeat the procedure 
of final bleeding until only liquid comes out of the overflow screw - 
o/hose, and until you feel the top and bottom hoses are full.
- Keep the liquid level always on full mark through the process, or 
raise the o/tank and make the procedure somewhat shorter.
- Cap on, start the engine and let it run until the cabin heater shows 
some heat, squeeze the pipe from time to time to promote the heat 
transfer, and stop the engine if the top pipe becomes to hot to touch 
while the bottom one is stone cold, or let it run until the fan comes 
on, if the bottom hose becomes warm (which means that the thermostat has 
opened) and heat spreads through the rad (without AC very easy, with AC 
through the fan blades).
- when the bottom pipe gets warm, you can rev the engine on 2-3K a few 
times to promote the thermostat opening. If after second time after the 
fan no more bubbles return to the o/tank, no leaks, you're done. Rad 
cover on, exp/tank in position, and you are ready for a drive. As soon 
as you feel full heat in the cabin, you can take it down to desired level.
-After next cool down check the liquid level again, but basically you're 
done.

HTH,

Ado