Lifter tick

[Phil Payne]

> Support the MMO, but one would need to get MMO out of the system
> including the oil rad, which can be a messy job. Shorter oil change
> intervals, or o/filter change and top up every 5K, and oil every 10K
> (correct o/filter and grade of preferably synthetic oil), and keeping
> oil at good level just below the top mark can help a great deal.

The oil cooler will only get MMO in it, in this instance, if the thermostat opens.

I don't like these additives.  Basically the oil companies know what they're doing - the only
thing I ever put into an engine besides "proper" oil is a true flushing oil, and then only on
a car that hasn't been looked after.  You can get flushing oil in the UK from any motor
factor - the brand I use is Comma.  It's like glycerine - completely clear when it goes it.
My usual approach is:

a) Dump oil and filter.
b) Fit cheapest filter available - GBP2, $3.
c) Add 2.5 litres of flushing oil
d) Idle for fifteen minutes
c) Dump oil and filter
d) Fit second cheap and nasty filter
e) Add rest of flushing oil
f) Repeat idle
g) Dump and drain.  I sometimes (in bad case) pull the plugs to kill compression and spin the
engine for ten seconds on the starter - there's no load on any of the system but it does shift
a few more fluid ounces of oil.
h) Fit good new filter and real oil.

I then recommend the next change after 3,000 miles because there's still a high detergent
content from the flushing oil that didn't drain out properly.

I've recovered three "black sludge" engines this way and they're all still running beautifully
after years of problems with blocked breathers, etc.

-- 
  Phil Payne
  http://www.isham-research.com
  +44 7785 302 803