No heat in my 5ktq (in my car at idle)

[LL - NY]

Are you sure that there's ANY air coming out of the vents? If not, (or if
your car starts fogging on COOL days whenever you come to a stop), you may
wish to check your blower motor. BTDT on my old 200 (4-sale BTW), didn't
notice the problem where I lived or going to work b/c there wasn't any
traffic, but on the weekend visiting the ex-GF in Albany, the car would fog
whenever I came to a complete stop in city traffic. That's when I learned
about the "temp" fix of poking the exposed motor brush. Got pretty good at
it until I replaced the blower motor that summer.

LL - NY

On 12/5/05, John Sherrow <jsherrow at verizon.net> wrote:
>
> I've noticed on my car now that its winter. At idle (when stopped at a
> light) the cabin temperature cools considerably. Cool air is coming from
> the
> vents. Once I start driving heat returns. Does this make sense to anyone?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Kellock" <ekellock at gmail.com>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 3:13 PM
> Subject: Re: No heat in my 5ktq
>
>
> I've avoided replacing the blower on both my v8 5spd (6 years) and my 200q
> (4 years) with similar methods.  I was not as lucky with my other v8 and
> found that replacing the blower really wasn't that bad.  I'm not chomping
> at
> the bit to do the other 2 cars, but now at least I know that it won't be
> the
> end of the world if/when I do.
>
> WD40 works well, but I also used electrical contact cleaner with good
> results.  WD is probably the best to start with due to its solvent
> characteristics, but after that I found it wouldn't last as long and
> wasn't
> quite as effective.  And I've sprayed in there while it's running without
> blowing anything up or igniting anything (may be just dumb luck so use
> your
> own judgement).
>
> Another thing some people do is to push down on the brush tower that you
> can
> see inside the vent hole to bend it closer to the commutator.  At this
> point
> I'm not sure that's necessary or very effective for too long.  If you're
> down to where proximity of contact is part of the issue, then you're
> looking
> at imminent replacement anyway.  Now that I've seen one out of the box, I
> realize that the brush towers are designed to allow for where of the brush
> and when it's worn down, it's worn down.  Getting them freed up from
> accumulated goo is the first step though to make sure they can actually
> slide freely to allow for wear.
>
> Ed
>
>
> On 12/5/05, SJ <syljay at optonline.net> wrote:
> >
> > More than likely the brushes on the blower motor are worn out - not long
> > enough to make contact with commutator.
> >
> > You should test for voltage at the blower motor - just to make sure its
> > not
> > an electrical control problem.
> > If you get voltage at the motor, you can temporarily fix the symptom by
> > cleaning the brushes.
> >
> > The brushes/brush holder/brush wire braid  get gummed up with years of
> > accumulated brush dust and oils and greases. This accumulated gunk in
> the
> > brush holder prevents the brush from sliding easily. When the brushes
> get
> > worn down, the brush spring does not exert enough pressure to make firm
> > contact between brush and commutator.
> >
> > On my car, I solved the problem by getting at the blower motor and
> > spraying
> > WD-40 on the brush assembly. You cannot get at the bottom brush, but if
> > you
> > spray WD-40 on the top brush, enough will run down and around the
> > commutator
> > to get onto the bottom brush.
> > I also used a dental pick on the top brush to move it up and down and
> free
> > it up.
> > I used a hair drier (on low setting) to dry out the solvents after the
> > cleaning . . .dont want start a fire in there from brush arcing.
> >
> > This solution has worked for almost a year now. No problems so far. I
> have
> > a
> > new blower motor waiting to be put in.
> >
> > Easy fix thats worth trying.
> > To get at the blower motor, you need to remove:
> > - windshield wipers
> > - Plastic cover that protects blower assembly area.
> > Then you remove a rubber cap on the motor housing to get at the brushes.
> >
> > SJ
> > 85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
> > 85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
> > 88 Audi 5kq
> > 90 Audi 100q
> >
> >
> >
> > > Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 07:42:02 -0500
> > > From: "Stricker, Michael" <Michael.Stricker at gd-ais.com>
> > > Subject: No heat in my 5ktq
> >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > There was no heat in my 1988 5ktq today.  I hear no fan(s) blowing and
> > selecting the different modes doesn't cause anything to happen.  It
> seems
> > as
> > though a fuse or relay are bad.  The system ran fine only 1 day ago.
> > >
> > > Any ideas would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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> 12/2/2005
> >
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