No heat in my 5ktq (in my car at idle)

John Sherrow jsherrow at verizon.net
Mon Dec 5 22:00:53 EST 2005


Yeah there's air flow. Seems counterintuitive I agree.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: LL - NY 
  To: John Sherrow 
  Cc: Ed Kellock ; quattro at audifans.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 9:52 PM
  Subject: Re: No heat in my 5ktq (in my car at idle)


  Are you sure that there's ANY air coming out of the vents? If not, (or if your car starts fogging on COOL days whenever you come to a stop), you may wish to check your blower motor. BTDT on my old 200 (4-sale BTW), didn't notice the problem where I lived or going to work b/c there wasn't any traffic, but on the weekend visiting the ex-GF in Albany, the car would fog whenever I came to a complete stop in city traffic. That's when I learned about the "temp" fix of poking the exposed motor brush. Got pretty good at it until I replaced the blower motor that summer. 

  LL - NY


  On 12/5/05, John Sherrow <jsherrow at verizon.net> wrote:
    I've noticed on my car now that its winter. At idle (when stopped at a
    light) the cabin temperature cools considerably. Cool air is coming from the
    vents. Once I start driving heat returns. Does this make sense to anyone? 

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Ed Kellock" <ekellock at gmail.com>
    To: <quattro at audifans.com>
    Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 3:13 PM 
    Subject: Re: No heat in my 5ktq


    I've avoided replacing the blower on both my v8 5spd (6 years) and my 200q
    (4 years) with similar methods.  I was not as lucky with my other v8 and
    found that replacing the blower really wasn't that bad.  I'm not chomping at 
    the bit to do the other 2 cars, but now at least I know that it won't be the
    end of the world if/when I do.

    WD40 works well, but I also used electrical contact cleaner with good
    results.  WD is probably the best to start with due to its solvent 
    characteristics, but after that I found it wouldn't last as long and wasn't
    quite as effective.  And I've sprayed in there while it's running without
    blowing anything up or igniting anything (may be just dumb luck so use your 
    own judgement).

    Another thing some people do is to push down on the brush tower that you can
    see inside the vent hole to bend it closer to the commutator.  At this point
    I'm not sure that's necessary or very effective for too long.  If you're 
    down to where proximity of contact is part of the issue, then you're looking
    at imminent replacement anyway.  Now that I've seen one out of the box, I
    realize that the brush towers are designed to allow for where of the brush 
    and when it's worn down, it's worn down.  Getting them freed up from
    accumulated goo is the first step though to make sure they can actually
    slide freely to allow for wear.

    Ed


    On 12/5/05, SJ < syljay at optonline.net> wrote:
    >
    > More than likely the brushes on the blower motor are worn out - not long
    > enough to make contact with commutator.
    >
    > You should test for voltage at the blower motor - just to make sure its
    > not
    > an electrical control problem.
    > If you get voltage at the motor, you can temporarily fix the symptom by
    > cleaning the brushes. 
    >
    > The brushes/brush holder/brush wire braid  get gummed up with years of
    > accumulated brush dust and oils and greases. This accumulated gunk in the
    > brush holder prevents the brush from sliding easily. When the brushes get 
    > worn down, the brush spring does not exert enough pressure to make firm
    > contact between brush and commutator.
    >
    > On my car, I solved the problem by getting at the blower motor and
    > spraying 
    > WD-40 on the brush assembly. You cannot get at the bottom brush, but if
    > you
    > spray WD-40 on the top brush, enough will run down and around the
    > commutator
    > to get onto the bottom brush. 
    > I also used a dental pick on the top brush to move it up and down and free
    > it up.
    > I used a hair drier (on low setting) to dry out the solvents after the
    > cleaning . . .dont want start a fire in there from brush arcing. 
    >
    > This solution has worked for almost a year now. No problems so far. I have
    > a
    > new blower motor waiting to be put in.
    >
    > Easy fix thats worth trying.
    > To get at the blower motor, you need to remove: 
    > - windshield wipers
    > - Plastic cover that protects blower assembly area.
    > Then you remove a rubber cap on the motor housing to get at the brushes.
    >
    > SJ
    > 85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto 
    > 85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
    > 88 Audi 5kq
    > 90 Audi 100q
    >
    >
    >
    > > Date: Mon, 5 Dec 2005 07:42:02 -0500
    > > From: "Stricker, Michael" < Michael.Stricker at gd-ais.com>
    > > Subject: No heat in my 5ktq
    >
    > > Hi,
    > >
    > > There was no heat in my 1988 5ktq today.  I hear no fan(s) blowing and
    > selecting the different modes doesn't cause anything to happen.  It seems 
    > as
    > though a fuse or relay are bad.  The system ran fine only 1 day ago.
    > >
    > > Any ideas would be appreciated.
    > >
    > > Thanks
    > >
    > > Mike
    >
    >
    >
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