type 44 steering rack replacement

[Kneale Brownson]

Before I hit a banjo bolt with an impact gun I'd want to know I had another
banjo bolt to replace it.  These aren't high-strength suspension parts.

If I remember, I ended up having a helper guide the socket onto the bolt
while I manipulated the wrench from the wheelwell.  My extensions included
a jointed connector (or maybe I used one of those sockets with the joint)
at the bolt end.  

Again, I'd break that loose before taking the rack loose.

At 09:29 AM 6/21/2005 -0600, Keith Lawyer wrote:
>Update, since I know the whole list is waiting w baited breath (read: if you 
>have anything remotely better to do just delete now).  I took a good look at 
>the car last nite and I definitely think the rack is leaking.
>
>The boot is torn on both sides.  There's a pool of Pentosin over on the 
>passenger side on a little triangular flat area (which may be part of the 
>rack, don't know).  This is also how it makes it down to the exhaust and 
>burns off.  The entire bottom of the tranny/diff is coated in Pentosin.  I 
>see no evidence of any leaks where the lines themselves attach.  It appears 
>the leak is coming from the ram(s) and running out of the torn boots.
>
>Got started on the teardown last nite.  The line from the pump to the 
>reservoir really didn't want to let go of the reservoir LOL, but the heat 
>gun plus lots of cursing finally worked.
>
>Got the lock plate bent back easy enough w a huge straight blade 
>screwdriver.  The driver's side tie rod bolt was easy enough, but the angle 
>for the passenger side tie rod bolt required I come straight at it from the 
>front of the car with a long extension and wobble on the impact gun - or at 
>least thats' how I solved the problem.
>
>Tried to get the high pressure line off the rack but I see no earthly way to 
>do so..... I could almost get a socket on there but there was no way to turn 
>it.  This *is* 19mm, no?  I've searched the archives per Kneale's suggestion 
>but it almost seems to me parameters for the search engine have changed, 
>seems all I get anymore is the huge archives that are 200 or 300k no matter 
>how many or few terms I search for.
>
>The plan at this point is to figure out what I need to do under the dash and 
>then get the whole rack loose w the lines attached.  Once the rack is loose 
>I can theoretically rotate it to access the lines better, I'm thinking come 
>from the passenger side wheelwell, and with the impact there's no reason the 
>rack has to be securely anchored to the car to break the banjo 
>bolts............or at least that's the theory.
>
>So I just gotta find a source for some more o-rings.......considering the 
>nearest dealer is 4 hours away.
>
>Keith L
>
>>>> Kneale Brownson <kneale at coslink.net> 6/20/2005 12:59:37 PM >>>
>Get to the lines from above.  Do one at a time so you don't plug them into
>the wrong places.   Lots of postings in the archives about replacing them.
>Best tricks I've seen:  Use long extensions and go at the hose bolts from
>the passenger wheelwell;  and wind some thread around the bolt so you can
>pull on it to turn the bolt back into the rack while holding a little
>finger pressure on it.  
>
>The racket could be from the high pressure hose.
>
>At 11:25 AM 6/20/2005 -0600, Keith Lawyer wrote:
>>No, it could just be a line.  But I get quite a racket when turning the 
>>wheel, lots of moaning and groaning which I assume is from the 
>>rack.............seems only other thing that might cause such symptoms would 
>>be upper strut bearings?  I suppose I could figure it out by turning the 
>>wheel w the motor off?
>>
>>So between the noise and the high mileage I figure this rack is due
>regardless?
>>
>>However this brings up a point I've been wondering about:  is it best to get 
>>at the lines from the engine compartment or under the car?
>>
>>Keith L
>
>
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