type 44 steering rack replacement

[Patrick Austin]

Keith

You use two open/closed end wrenchs to undo the high pressure banjo bolt on
the
rack. Use the second one to hook on the end of the first one and use as
leverage to break the
bolt loose.  It's easy to remove the bolt after its loose.

BTDT atleast 4 times.

PAT Korach
Kirkland, WA

-----Original Message-----
From: quattro-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:quattro-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Keith Lawyer
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 8:29 AM
To: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: Re: type 44 steering rack replacement


Update, since I know the whole list is waiting w baited breath (read: if you
have anything remotely better to do just delete now).  I took a good look at
the car last nite and I definitely think the rack is leaking.

The boot is torn on both sides.  There's a pool of Pentosin over on the
passenger side on a little triangular flat area (which may be part of the
rack, don't know).  This is also how it makes it down to the exhaust and
burns off.  The entire bottom of the tranny/diff is coated in Pentosin.  I
see no evidence of any leaks where the lines themselves attach.  It appears
the leak is coming from the ram(s) and running out of the torn boots.

Got started on the teardown last nite.  The line from the pump to the
reservoir really didn't want to let go of the reservoir LOL, but the heat
gun plus lots of cursing finally worked.

Got the lock plate bent back easy enough w a huge straight blade
screwdriver.  The driver's side tie rod bolt was easy enough, but the angle
for the passenger side tie rod bolt required I come straight at it from the
front of the car with a long extension and wobble on the impact gun - or at
least thats' how I solved the problem.

Tried to get the high pressure line off the rack but I see no earthly way to
do so..... I could almost get a socket on there but there was no way to turn
it.  This *is* 19mm, no?  I've searched the archives per Kneale's suggestion
but it almost seems to me parameters for the search engine have changed,
seems all I get anymore is the huge archives that are 200 or 300k no matter
how many or few terms I search for.

The plan at this point is to figure out what I need to do under the dash and
then get the whole rack loose w the lines attached.  Once the rack is loose
I can theoretically rotate it to access the lines better, I'm thinking come
from the passenger side wheelwell, and with the impact there's no reason the
rack has to be securely anchored to the car to break the banjo
bolts............or at least that's the theory.

So I just gotta find a source for some more o-rings.......considering the
nearest dealer is 4 hours away.

Keith L

>>> Kneale Brownson <kneale at coslink.net> 6/20/2005 12:59:37 PM >>>
Get to the lines from above.  Do one at a time so you don't plug them into
the wrong places.   Lots of postings in the archives about replacing them.
Best tricks I've seen:  Use long extensions and go at the hose bolts from
the passenger wheelwell;  and wind some thread around the bolt so you can
pull on it to turn the bolt back into the rack while holding a little
finger pressure on it.

The racket could be from the high pressure hose.

At 11:25 AM 6/20/2005 -0600, Keith Lawyer wrote:
>No, it could just be a line.  But I get quite a racket when turning the
>wheel, lots of moaning and groaning which I assume is from the
>rack.............seems only other thing that might cause such symptoms
would
>be upper strut bearings?  I suppose I could figure it out by turning the
>wheel w the motor off?
>
>So between the noise and the high mileage I figure this rack is due
regardless?
>
>However this brings up a point I've been wondering about:  is it best to
get
>at the lines from the engine compartment or under the car?
>
>Keith L


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