Return of the No-Start 4kq

[Huw Powell]

> I jumpered the fuel pump relay today and the pump runs.  So I put the relay
> back in and the car started OK.  When I had similar experiences with my
> 200q20v, I ended up having to replace the relay and then having the pump
> fail a few weeks later.  My surmise was that the pump going out caused the
> relay to fail.  Should I expect the same here?

There's really no way of knowing - although I suppose you could measure 
the current draw and flow output of the pump and see if you can find 
specs to compare your measurements to.

>  Should I get all the pump
> "fixings" ala Huw's report on renewal of his system and prepare to replace
> everything on the fuel pump tray? 

That depends - is this a car you keep trying to make better and cleaner 
everytime you work on it, or one that is headed to becoming a beater?

- pump - well, this is why you'd be in there, so yes.
- The tray - shouldn't "need" replacement, coat of paint can be nice.
- the molded plastic lines - good idea to have on hand in case their 
fittings break.
- pressure accumulator - can be a hunk of rust and still work fine.
- filter - no brainer unless it was new last week
- half dozen or so rubber mounting bushings - any old ones that aren't 
broken will break as you undo them.  try to get all.
- various bits of bracketry - like the tray, a bit of a "flash" luxury, 
but I think they're all available new.  Or nice ones can be had from 
non-rust belt parts cars?

> What relay can I use for the 4kq?  The
> contacts configuration on my spare 200 relay is different from the one on
> the 4kq.

That's because, um, they are different.  Any of the n/a CIS-E cars 
should have a compatible fpr on board, or you can find new ones for 
about $40 I think.  Sorry I don't have a p/n for you...

-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi

http://www.humanthoughts.org/