Fuel Pump Relay question

[Ben Swann]

On more than one occasion, I have seen/heard of Ignition cutout/no start
because there was a poor connection right at the Hall sensor - the connector
that goes into the distributor.  Most recently fellow Audi comrades at the
Carlyle Import show witnessed a CGT/4kQ distributor just about to be pulled
because of no hall signal/no start, when just as distributor was about  to
be removed, the O-ring seal at the connector was jammed causing a bad
connection, or something to that effect.  Thought I had witnessed the worlds
fastes distributor swap, when someone pointed out that they found the bad
connectionwhen it was disconnected to swap.  O-ring re-seated and connector
snpped in and car started right up.  Sometimes it is that simple.

Ben

[Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 13:57:37 -0500
From: Chris Hall <badcomrade at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Relay question
To: tlum at flash.net
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
Message-ID: <121ac73d050527115774a7c386 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Yeah, I figured the temp sensor was fine.  The hall sender is fine.
When the Hall goes, the tach drops to 0 like a stone.  Same goes for
the coil, the ignition control module, and the fuel pump relay.  When
my car was stalling, it would "float" down which means that all the
electrical was in tact.  I've had recent vacuum problems that I fixed,
and checking those tells me they're still alright.  I looked at all
the other hoses and lines, and they don't have any cracks, etc.  The
air plate isn't sticking either.  I've swapped out the ECU for a spare
I have, and everything's ok there too.  I tested the idle / wot switch
last night... they both work (show a change on my multimeter when
they're activated)

I'm starting to wonder if the cap / rotor / plug wires are shot.  I've
had the car for about 2-3 years now, and don't know how long they've
been on the car.  I used to have a problem starting my 83 when it was
hot, and it was the cap & wires.  I haven't had a chance to look at
them / test the resistance yet (and don't know off hand what they
should be at).

I'm almost positive the ignition switch is fine as well...]