Fuel Pump Relay question

[Chris Hall]

Yeah... but like I said, if it was the connection at the distributor,
the tach would be dropping straight to 0 (like a feather in a vacuum),
and it doesn't.  The car was running and stalling usually 10-20 or so
minutes in to trips occasionally.  Last time I started it, I went
under the hood to try and make it stall by tugging wires, vacuum
hoses, etc and of course it died when my hands weren't touching
anything lol.

The last time the car was spuddering / stalling, it turned out to be
the metal pipe that runs from the crankcase vent up to the 4-way hose
on top of the valve cover.  The metal pipe looked like it wasn't in as
far as it should be, so I shoved it deep in to the 4 way hose, and
sure enough, the car started right up, and I drive it that way for 5
months before the engine started acting up again.  I then put 2 hose
clamps on the little 3" piece of rubber hose that connects the vent to
the metal pipe, and a 3rd clamp on the connection between the metal
pipe and the 4 way hose... and it didn't help.

I'm gonna try and spend a good part of today playing around with the
car, so I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again for all the responses I've had.  Makes me feel like we're
effortlessly building a "knowledge base" for future suckers like me to
search when they buy a 20 year old Audi  :)


On 5/27/05, Ben Swann <benswann at comcast.net> wrote:
> On more than one occasion, I have seen/heard of Ignition cutout/no start
> because there was a poor connection right at the Hall sensor - the connector
> that goes into the distributor.  Most recently fellow Audi comrades at the
> Carlyle Import show witnessed a CGT/4kQ distributor just about to be pulled
> because of no hall signal/no start, when just as distributor was about  to
> be removed, the O-ring seal at the connector was jammed causing a bad
> connection, or something to that effect.  Thought I had witnessed the worlds
> fastes distributor swap, when someone pointed out that they found the bad
> connectionwhen it was disconnected to swap.  O-ring re-seated and connector
> snpped in and car started right up.  Sometimes it is that simple.
> 
> Ben
> 
> [Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 13:57:37 -0500
> From: Chris Hall <badcomrade at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Relay question
> To: tlum at flash.net
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <121ac73d050527115774a7c386 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> 
> Yeah, I figured the temp sensor was fine.  The hall sender is fine.
> When the Hall goes, the tach drops to 0 like a stone.  Same goes for
> the coil, the ignition control module, and the fuel pump relay.  When
> my car was stalling, it would "float" down which means that all the
> electrical was in tact.  I've had recent vacuum problems that I fixed,
> and checking those tells me they're still alright.  I looked at all
> the other hoses and lines, and they don't have any cracks, etc.  The
> air plate isn't sticking either.  I've swapped out the ECU for a spare
> I have, and everything's ok there too.  I tested the idle / wot switch
> last night... they both work (show a change on my multimeter when
> they're activated)
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if the cap / rotor / plug wires are shot.  I've
> had the car for about 2-3 years now, and don't know how long they've
> been on the car.  I used to have a problem starting my 83 when it was
> hot, and it was the cap & wires.  I haven't had a chance to look at
> them / test the resistance yet (and don't know off hand what they
> should be at).
> 
> I'm almost positive the ignition switch is fine as well...]
> 
> 
> 


-- 
Chris Hall
badcomrade at gmail.com
"making girls cry since 1974"