1988 5000S rear window replacement

[Brett Dikeman]

On Apr 15, 2006, at 11:54 AM, Thom Jones wrote:

> Hi all!
> Didja know that large size hailstones can wreak havoc on a back  
> window?
> Anyway, after cleaning up most of the glass, I'm looking at  
> replacing this
> thing myself.  I found a replacement at a boneyard, but wondering  
> if anyone
> here has any experience removing/replacing this window and would  
> have any
> tips or gotchas they could pass on.

This is from memory of taking apart the rear door on my 200q20v about  
a week ago- it might be slightly different on your 5000.  I -believe-  
you need to take the whole door apart for this, but wait until  
someone confirms this (although you can do lots of handy stuff if you  
take the door completely apart, and it's not many more steps than  
removing the door panel; a couple of linkages, 4 bolts, and a plastic  
tie or two.)

-Remove the lock button, inside door handle, inside door lever and  
two screws at the top of either side of the door panel.  There is a  
screw hidden behind the inside door lever.
-Remove the door panel progressively with a plastic "spudger" (putty  
knife or similar.  Plastic to avoid scratching paint.)  There are  
snap attachments all the way around.
-Remove any insulation material
-Disconnect the lock rod, unthread the release cable, disconnect the  
vacuum line from the holders along the bottom of the door
-Mark both sides of the door body and the inner metal panel for  
alignment purposes.
-Remove the four large bolts holding the inner panel to the lower panel.
-Have a bucket, short log, or small step-stool close at hand.
-Pull the inner panel straight up gently and out.  You won't get far-  
have a helper ready to disconnect things (you will have to clip a  
plastic tie for some room) and lay the door down.  I used the bottom  
of the remaining door half, the corner of the seat, and a bucket.

Now you've got complete access to the window regulator mechanism, etc.

While you're there- apply a heavy grease (wheel-bearing-type stuff)  
to the center slide.  Consider applying something like Vinylex or  
other rubber protectant to the rubber slides on either side of the  
window (clean them and make them a little slippery.)  Put some grease  
on the cables, and use a penetrating lubricant on the pulley shafts  
(I used Boeshield, available at boating stores. It penetrates and  
then part of the carrier slowly evaporates, making it thicken up a  
bit.  Fantastic stuff.  Does wonders on door hinges in your house!)

Also, apply something like Boeshield or maybe lithium grease to the  
bits of the latch mechanism you can get to, and liberally coat the  
widget that makes the door hold open.

If you see any cable damage, replace the cable.  Instructions are in  
the archives if you search for "window regulator repair".

Brett